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Category Archives: Morocco

Re-tracing steps

27 Tuesday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 1 Comment

Now that I have left Marrakech I am at a loss as to how to proceed on this blog. It was difficult to blog whilst in the countryside due to day after day of no cell reception and no WiFi (wiffee, as they call it here). I’m not interested in providing the day-to-day, blow-by-blow detail yet I want to talk about certain aspects of each day. So. I will discuss scenery, various activities, food, and things I noticed along the way without making it too step-by-step.

After arriving in Marrakech I was introduced to my traveling companions. I had already found and introduced myself to Susan and Marianne, a couple from Washington state. They looked like they might match the people in the photo my travel agent, Barbara, had sent to me, so I walked up to them and asked if that was true in the Madrid airport. Gladly it was because I liked the vibe I got from each of them straight away! We chatted awhile and were able to move through the airport together. And since I had never met Barbara before, they were eager to be a part of that first meeting and introduced me to her. So I met Susan and Marianne, or “the girls” as I affectionately called them throughout the trip. Then I met Barbara and her husband Richard which was great because I have been working with Barbara for 20 years by voice only! Now I had a face to put together with the voice. And there was also Carolyn and Catharine, two friends from Port Townsend, Washington. Along with them was Mokhtar, our tour guide. I didn’t know it then but Mokhtar and I would become fast friends (what a great guy!). We went outside in the hot Moroccan sun and there I met Achmed, our driver. It was prayer time so Achmed finished his prayers and our luggage was put up on the roof of the van and off we went for the beginning of our adventure. (I didn’t know it then but Achmed is a kind and happy fellow whom we all loved, not only for his safe driving but also his wonderful demeanor).

We traveled away from Marrakech and I couldn’t help but be glad about that what with all the busy-ness of that city. The further we were from M’Kesh, the happier I was – – even on that first day. We traveled along dusty roads with the most gorgeous scenery. After stopping for coffee (‘nus nus’ for coffee with milk, which means, literally, 50/50) and taking a few pictures, we were on our way. We stopped in a small town for tagine, a typical Moroccan meal done in a clay pot called a tagine. So the cooking pot is called a tagine and the food that is served from it is called tagine. It was the best food I had tasted! Even though tagine can be made in a regular cooking pot, for me it’s best when cooked in an actual tagine because the meat and vegetables often cook on to the bottom of the tagine and create a crust not unlike the parts that stick to the pan whilst roasting a turkey. These are the coveted pieces, I quickly learned. (This place would become the benchmark for all my future tagines and none would ever come close, I found out later). Here’s some information about tagine: ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tajine

We drove another distance to a town called Ouarzazate (means ‘noiselessly’ in Arabic). Ouarzazate is a film-making location. Films such as Lawrence of Arabia (1962), The Living Daylights (1987), The Last Temptation of Christ (1988), The Mummy (1999), Gladiator (2000), Kingdom of Heaven (2005), Kundun (1997) and Legionnaire (1998) were shot here. It’s a cute town – – but almost eerily cute as it seems somewhat like a movie set itself. A little too clean. A little too organized. A little too manufactured. But still nice and still comfortable.

We all either met for dinner or went to bed early, depending on the situation. I met for dinner and then retreated to the hotel lobby where Mokhtar, our guide and now my friend, got me situated with WiFi. And that’s the first and last WiFi I really had the rest of the time in Morocco. Next morning we were up and off for more adventures on the road. I will post pictures as I am able.

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Photos from the valley

23 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Me revoilà!

23 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

lemaire channel, moroccan countryside, wide open spaces

I’m back! Arrived in Marrakech late yesterday after a day on the road retracing the steps we had driven on our first day. It is my favorite area, I’ve learned, and it was fun to see the beauty in reverse.

There’s a sadness about leaving the Moroccan countryside for me. It is majestic and grand; unbelievably stark and beautiful and lush and desolate all at once. As I’ve learned about myself through traveling, I like that. I like stark places; wide-open spaces, places that make me realize how small I am and how big the world is. Places that make me realize how much there is to see, and feel, and experience. It was yesterday, in this beautiful valley with brilliant blue skies and the hot sun that I felt like crying. Crying from joy! Every trip has a moment like this for me. In Antarctica it was when we went through the Lemaire Channel. In Japan it was in Hiroshima. In Bali it was on the coast at a monastery. At my place in Florida it is on the beach at sunset. In Morocco it was in this valley.

So there’s a sadness about leaving the countryside and there’s a desperate feeling about it as well. I took hundreds of pictures and enjoyed every single second of the time, even more than I already have been! I will post some of what I saw and I will continue recounting the individual days of the trip so far on other posts…

Suffice to say this much: I love Morocco. I love the people and I love the energy.

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Beauty and energy

17 Saturday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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I’ve only been here for about 15 hours but my impression right now is favorable. It is beautiful in a red-earth, sandy and arid kind of way. A nice mix of hustle and bustle of a city with lots of desert thrown in! Of course I didn’t see much of Marrakech as we immediately drove out of town to explore the mountains. Such beauty! It’s difficult to describe.

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Ouarzazate: ‘The Hollywood’ of Africa

16 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

travel

Oh, in case you didn’t realize it: Morocco is in Africa. I am in Africa! Look up more about Ouarzazate by clicking on the link under ‘Stuff Worth Knowing.’ It’s interesting and beautiful here!

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Day 1: the fullest day of my life!

16 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Thought-about-work today meter: 99%

Thursday was a full day tying up loose ends with work and in general. At the airport in MSP there was a family sitting in the corner reading a thick book that looked Bible’ish to me. The father was reading to the family and they were reading the last chapter of this big book. Revelation? What else could it be? What a weird passage to be reading before boarding a plane, I thought! Then I heard him mention stuff that was completely NOT Revelation-related, rather it was sorcer’ish! A Harry Potter book. Made me laugh.

A First Class upgrade made me so happy until I realized that all that afforded me was free beverages and “fun sized” Twix bars and Sun Chips. But why do they call the little tiny Twix bars ‘fun size’? To me that’s the un-fun size! The big ones with 2 bars per package? Now we’re talking fun!

But back to my story: the plane left at 3p and landed 2.5 hours later at JFK where I had a complicated get-to for the outbound Madrid flight. It was the kind of complicated get-to one would expect in a foreign country, or at least a country where whatever language you speak is not spoken. I swear, I felt like I was in a different country: getting someone to tell me where to go was confusing and complicated, finding my way around was confusing, and understanding even where I was and where I was to go was confusing! Finally boarded a bus that took us to our Madrid-bound flight meandering behind jets with names on the sides like: Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Singapore Air, SwissAir, and other names of places I want to go to. It was amazing to see the vast size of these airplanes; I have never had that perspective before! The flight to Madrid was a long one: 7 hours. Not long by standards of flying to Asia, but long because I could not get comfortable. It was painful. And worse, because of these fake eyelashes I’ve had installed (to save myself from wearing any makeup on this trip), I could not wear my eye mask to block out light (the lashes are too long and luxurious to risk bending w a mask so I choose to forfeit that luxury). So I suffered in silence – – and sleepless, besides. Landing in Madrid was another complicated situation but mostly due to customs and all that entailed. To this moment I have no idea how I knew what to do; I followed the masses and relied on the kindness of the Passport Control guys to point me in the right direction. Luckily there was a 3 hour layover so there was very little sense of urgency.

At or near the Marrakech departure gate I spotted two women I suspected to be Susan and Marianne, a part of my traveling ensemble. We struck up a conversation and I immediately felt comfortable with them! And it felt good to have someone else to travel with so I didn’t have to be completely vigilant and on-point! The flight to Marrakech, although just under 2 hours, was really enjoyable since I had an empty seat beside me and was able to sprawl out and even nap! Upon landing we cleared customs, grabbed our bags and went on to meet the rest of the party: my travel agent/friend of 20 years, Barbara and her husband Richard, Carolyn, our cooking instructor and her friend Catharine, and our guide Mokhtar and our driver, Achmed. Then outside in the 80-degree weather to begin our journey 4 hours southeast through the Atlas Mountains and to the town of Ouarzazate (pronounced: war-za-zat). A busy and long day full of beauty, which I will describe in another post. The day ended with check-in to our hotel, Hotel de Palmeraie, and then a subsequent dinner at 8:30 p.m. of soup, salad and wine, and now an evening of free WiFi in the lobby of the hotel! Sure the day was beautiful. And full of surprises and discoveries. But free WiFi?! Not sure it gets any better than that!

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The recent past

  • Living above my means
  • The broken palm tree and a hug
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  • Walk gently on this earth
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Stuff from my past

See Jane Travel

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Blogs worth reading

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Food! Glorious food!

  • Street food in Marrakech

Stuff worth knowing

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  • Definition 'kasbah'
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  • Volubilis, Morocco: about it

My traveling past in Flickr photos

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