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Category Archives: Morocco

A green-eyed, blonde-haired tourist

29 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

birka, blond hair, blonde, chefchouan, green eyed, Morocco, police security, rif mountains, security checkpoints, tour guide, tourism, tourist, travel

Tourism is king here in Morocco. Or queen. Either way, seems I’m the get out of jail free card when passing through police security checkpoints. But I’m also the flag that sometimes gets us stopped. For instance, when stopped for a requisite hash check in the Rif Mountains, we were waved through. (Presumably I can transport hash, no problem?) But when driving to Chefchouan in the Rif Mountains, we were stopped to confirm that the car is actually authorized as a tourism car. I’m the flag that alerted them to check for that. The green-eyed, blonde-haired tourist. The obvious non-Muslim. So if Mokhtar is walking with me through a village, he is stopped and asked if he has a tour guide license to take me.* It’s often discretely and I don’t even know about it, but it happens. We are always being watched. He doesn’t have a tour guide license so it can sometimes be a problem. “Can’t you just tell them we’re friends traveling together?” I ask naively. “No. We’re not married. Only married men and women travel together. Not friends,” is the answer he gives. Wow. This is amazing to me! So while we can walk together sometimes, especially in a larger city, it still poses a problem because I’m obviously non-Muslim. The tourist. Always trying to find a solution, I suggest I wear a hijab. But I’m told it won’t work. They’ll still know. That’s exactly what I was told in Turkey when I suggested I wear a birka through the markets. “It won’t do any good,” they told me, “We still know.”

*Tour guides are a protected resource in Morocco. The licenses protect their livelihoods and the tourists from scammers posing as guides. So it’s really a good thing it’s followed so closely. But frustrating when you’re just two friends trying to explore Morocco together, especially when one is actually Moroccan!

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Age is in the eye of the beholder

29 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

age, beauty, car, driving, fes, hitchhiking, love of people, Morocco, motherhood, neck surgery, old woman, road, travel, volubilis

Returning to Fes from Volubilis we passed two women hitchhiking. “Do you mind?’ Mokhtar asked. Of course not so we stopped to pick them up. “She’s an old lady,” he added. I agreed. They both looked like old ladies though of different gradients of old. In they hopped after many smiles and handshakes, hugs and ‘chukrans.’ Beautiful women with bright faces. Their story? Mother and daughter. Mother is on her way to Fes (50km away) to have neck surgery – – or hopes to. She was a maid for some people in Dades Valley and when her neck gave her so many troubles, the family let her go. Daughter came to get her and was so surprised how bad she really is. So now she is taking care of her old mom. Mother is 49. The “old lady” is 49.

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When in Volubilis

27 Monday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

1st century, Morocco, nature, roman ruins, unesco, volubilis

Volubilis is the site of ancient Roman ruins from like the 1st century. Without going into all the details (those which I have not retained), I’ll list a few high points. To review more, check out my link on it on this blog.

From that link:
The ruins remained substantially intact until they were devastated by an earthquake in the mid-18th century and by Moroccan rulers subsequently looting the site for stone to reuse in building Meknes. It was not until the latter part of the 19th century that the site was definitively identified as that of the ancient city of Volubilis. During and after the period of French rule over Morocco, about half of the site was excavated, revealing many fine mosaics, and some of the more prominent public buildings and high-status houses were restored or reconstructed. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed for being “an exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire”.

So here’s my experience. Driving through verdant and green, olive tree-filled rolling hills with grazing cows, sheep, and donkeys, you see a small sign pointing in the direction of Volubilis. But be careful or you’ll miss it (my experience) and will have to turn around and hunt for it again. And suddenly, you see it in the distance. And it takes your breath away. Because here in the middle of literally nowhere is an ancient Roman ruin from the first century! Are you even kidding me right now? And no one was practically even around! Spending an entire day here would not be out of the question if you were really into this kind of thing. Even for me I think I left too soon. But I was so taken by the wildflowers it was hard to decide what to focus on: ancient Roman ruins or these beautiful purple and pink flowers growing up through the ancient columns! Amazing all the way around.

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Baaa

26 Sunday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

barbecue, bread, brochette, cutlets, fez, food, lamb, Meknes, Moroccan salad, olive oil, olives, succulent meat, tajine

Lamb in tajine is amazing. Lamb brochette (skewered meat, barbecued) is fantastic. But the cutlets eaten today in a small town outside Meknes is something I will never forget. Ever. These cutlets are cut directly from the lamb that’s hanging on hooks right in front of you. So in other words, it’s fresh. The guy stands there with his big knife and cuts off what you desire. Then the butcher chops it all up for you in the cut you request. Then the waiter brings it by to show you before it’s barbecued. Then the Moroccan salad arrives along with some olives from the region (Meknes is famous for its olives and olive oil). All this along with bread to sop up extra juices along the way. As if all of this isn’t enough! Then the guy delivers the freshly cooked lamb and you think to yourself that there’s no way you’ll ever be able to eat that pile of just-meat. Especially after the salad and olives and the ubiquitous bread. But then you take the first bite of the crispy-fat and the succulent meat and you’re hooked. I can guarantee that. It is a flavor that I will not forget and that I’m afraid I am now hooked on and will crave. Forever.

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Fez and Dar Jnane

26 Sunday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Tags

Dar Jnane, fez, gorgeous interior, guesthouse, medina, Morocco

There’s a guesthouse here in Fez that is spectacular. It’s called Dar Jnane. I think it’s cool that it’s sort of got my name. It’s in a quiet part of the medina so it is relatively peaceful. Aside from the gorgeous interior that has been restored to mostly (or a lot of) the 1700’s original, the terrace is beyond amazing! It’s large and tiled and has a main floor, stairs leading up to a mid-level that’s quite large, and a small third level big enough for a small table and a couple of chairs. And the view is beautiful.

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The road to Fez

26 Sunday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Tags

cloudy day, fez, moroccan countryside, Morocco, nature, travelling, weather

It was a cloudy and damp day. Unlike the Morocco I’ve known in the past. In fact, my hair gets curlier as the days go on. So un-Morocco. But photography is better without the sun. The sun becomes another character in the image to futz with so it’s almost easier without it.

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Couscous Friday

25 Saturday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

call to prayer, casablanca, city sounds, coucous, food, hot peppers, moroccan city, Morocco, travel

Fridays are for couscous. And it seems every Moroccan follows this tradition. Mokhtar’s sister and her family were kind enough to invite me over to enjoy it with them! It was the best couscous I’ve ever had. Amazing! It had kind of a spice to it and she served fresh hot peppers with it besides. She will give me the recipe and allow me to make it with her next week when I return to their home.Image

It was great spending time with these family members! Four children aged 16, 12, 7, and 2. Lots of energy and joy in that home! And such love. It was really a great time. The home is beautiful, which is always fun to see, but it was comfortable and they are wonderful hosts.

I slept on the Moroccan sofas in the living room with the 12 year old daughter and it was an excellent nights’ sleep with donkey hooves sounding down the street in the night, cats fighting, birds singing, and all kinds of other Moroccan city sounds! And then the call to prayer which always first wakes me, then lulls me back to a deep sleep. Ah, Morocco!

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Maroc redux

25 Saturday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Tags

boston, casablanca, charles degaulle, hand luggage, logan airport, lost luggage, pink princess, transportation, travel

After sales training in Boston, I left for Morocco. But it was during severe storms and our plane was hit by lightening before reaching us. So that led to many hours of uncertainty whilst I waited in the Air France lounge. Thank goodness for that lounge because it kept me from having to deal with the thousands of people milling about who were also temporarily stranded at Logan Airport. And it made for an interesting time watching people! Always interesting to watch people, especially from other cultures. More Americans there than I usually see traveling, but then we were in Boston, after all.

So we were crammed in to the Air France lounge and a phone goes off inside someone’s hand luggage. Everyone was looking around waiting for the person to answer it because the ring was super loud. Finally, after a lot of scrambling, a 6-year old girl grabbed the iPhone out of her pink princess backpack and talked to her mom. It was cute and fun to watch her.

After many false starts, the plane finally took off, about 3 hours late. It made for a long day. And the flight was jam-packed so I was miserable and going crazy from sitting for so long, what with the sales meeting just prior. I was miserable. I managed to sleep for about 3 hours of the the 6 hour flight, which was better than nothing. It was a fairly tight connection in Paris but I made it with about 20 minutes to spare.

Having left my eyeglasses at home and having had taken out my contacts, I navigated Charles DeGaulle basically by luck. But not before seeing my own self in a mirror and trying to ask my own self a direction question, not recognizing it was me! I was embarrassed and rushed away afraid someone might have seen me make this crazy mistake!

We arrived in Casablanca on time. It all seemed smooth until we got to customs and there was no real direction about what to do. Two lines were long and slow-moving, so a few of us moved over to another line, yet it was unclear over there, too. A Moroccan man in front of me spoke English and I was able to communicate with him and understand him when he said, “They have couscous in their heads” and I laughed, knowing this is a common saying when someone doesn’t understand you or when someone is difficult. I reminded him that it was Friday and we both laughed. (Couscous is made and eaten on Friday all over the country). It was a nice connection and he was a nice man.

The customs agent asked me a zillion questions about my stay: with whom was I traveling, where was I staying, what’s the address of where I’ll be, what hotels and in which cities will I be staying. None of these questions I know the answer to, except with whom I’m traveling. “Is this your first visit to Morocco?” he asked. When I told him my third he relaxed a little and finally stamped my passport with a big smile on his face and sent me on my way, wishing me bon voyage.

Waiting for the luggage, my main piece came quickly around but I waited until the carousel stopped to no avail for the backpack. Luckily, the man who spoke English came to my rescue. He started when we were both waiting for our non-existent luggage by asking me where I’m from. I told him ‘Minnesota, USA’, my standard answer. He said, “Really? Wow! Minnesota. You betcha!” and I laughed a little but then realized how common (and tired) this joke is in the USA, but then remembered I’m in Morocco and how does he know this? He said, “I’m from Minnesota!” Knowing that men everywhere I travel are always trying to find commonality, I reacted coolly. So he went on.

Man: Where do you live in Minnesota?
Me: Minneapolis.
Man: Where specifically? Uptown?
Me: (surprised he was so specific) Northeast
Man: Oh! By Surdyk’s? (the best liquor store in the state)
Me: YES! YOU KNOW SURDYK’S?
Man: Yes! I live on Minnehaha Parkway. I’m your neighbor! You betcha!
Turns out he’s lived there for 18 years, he’s a surgical assistant at Fairview Hospital, and he’s back here to visit his mother. And he’s just a really nice guy! It was delightful to have him to talk to.

But the best part, he had a man helping him with his luggage so when ours were among the missing, he whisked me and my passport away to take care of the situation. The whole while with a smile and a laugh that we are neighbors! It was delightful. And instead of struggling through the situation, we were in and out within an hour and a half (others had to wait much, much longer!). I didn’t have a business card to give him, nor did he. He showed me his Fairview entry card with his name as if to confirm he was telling me the truth. After being together for so long and feeling connected, and after he told everyone huddled together in that small room ‘our story’, the whole thing was over and I was leaving to meet Mokhtar. I was sad to say goodbye to that guy because he was a respite of happiness for me. Cheerful and kind!

So I left with my bags out of that crammed little room and headed confidently in the wrong direction! To which some of the other men in the room hollered, “Madame! Madame! Please!” and pointed in the other direction with their hands over their hearts. God I love Morocco. The kindness and helpfulness oozes from this place.

Mokhtar met me at the assigned spot after he had been waiting about 3 hours for me. With no cell reception and a waning battery, we were unable to keep in touch. It was great to see him anyway and we departed the airport into the crisp, cool Casablanca air. I was so happy to be back!

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En route

23 Thursday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Tags

casablanca, eyeglasses, fes, logan airport, luggage, Morocco, packing

I’m waiting for the flight to Paris and then Casablanca in the lounge at Logan Airport in Boston. Ready for my third trip to Morocco in 13 months. Morocco 3.

Luggage is light this time yet I know I still brought more than is needed. 18 kg is the heaviest bag. 6 kg is the backpack. So I’m pretty proud of myself since a week of business travel just before this trip requires me to ship one bag home. Lots of packing and re-packing and organizing. Hoping I didn’t forget more than the eyeglasses I already realize were forgotten.

Everything seems situated enough on that end with plans for a brief stay in Casablanca overnight and then on to Fes sometime on Saturday.

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Third time’s a charm

04 Saturday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Morocco, northern cities, tagine, tranquil

I’m returning to Morocco in 20 days; this time to visit some of the northern cities. I’m saving some of those cities for a fourth trip back, hopefully with my friends Richard and Barbara.

During planning the guide asked me, “Will this be a vacation or a trip?” That’s always a big topic of conversation: trips vs vacations! This time it is most definitely a vacation. All I want to do is drink coffee, eat tagine, take walks through the souks and villages and countryside, and sleep! And of course, take photos. I’ve had a lot of ‘trips of a lifetime’ so this time I want to just relax. As my friend Mokhtar says, ‘Just tranquil.’ Only he pronounces it ‘trankeel.’ I love that word with that pronunciation.

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Lord of the flies

05 Wednesday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

berber village, buzzing, crazy day, flies, Morocco, mosquito, mosquito net, swarms, travel, vacation, wearing a scarf

So on the first day I swallowed a fly. Today one flew into my eye. What’s next? My ears? I swear I’ve never seen so many flies around me. Ever. These flies are slow yet un-catchable or -killable. And they land and sit there on you taunting you to get them and then escape at the last minute. And the buzzing sound! Argh. It’s enough to seriously drive me crazy. Day and night they swarm and crawl and buzz and hover. I’ve taken to wearing a scarf over my head and upper body at night to act as a mosquito net of sorts. I don’t even care that I can’t fully breathe. Just so those things are away from me…

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Hello, kitty!

05 Wednesday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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berber village, cats, kittens, kitty, Morocco

Cats, cats, and more cats. They are everywhere! And just when you think you’re seeing a repeat cat, there’s some little marking on it that makes you realize it’s yet another one. We have seen the tiniest cats. Scroungy little mangy cats with huge eyes, old cats with some disability, cats with long tails, cats with short tails. They’re everywhere. Last night in the Berber village where we stayed there was a mother cat with huge ears who had a brood hidden under the thick rosemary bushes. Their mews gave them away and we were able to watch them closely without disturbing them.

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Morocco: Where do I begin?

05 Wednesday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

amazing things, berber villages, Morocco, mountains, obscure places, rough terrain

This trip to Morocco has impressed me as much as the first trip 5 months ago – – but in way different ways. The first time I had no idea what to expect. This time, I not only know what to expect (for the most part) but I recognize places I’ve been. Even the most obscure places. It’s surprising how much really stuck in my mind from the first time. The realization of how much I love it here and how at home I feel surprises me. I am comfortable stumbling through the language(s), both French and Arabic. I am comfortable with the food, with the flow of things, with the people.

This trip has been very similar to my first trip so far; at least as far as the places visited. Where it has been different has been with what Mokhtar has decided to do at each place. For example we drove quite a distance off the beaten path into tiny Berber villages and stayed with a family at their Riad in Boutahar. We played with the children, made couscous for dinner with them, and the sister’s friend applied henna to Debbie and I. We laughed around the dinner table, helped them clean up, took photos with the children, and watched TV. It was amazing. Next day we drove off, off, off road again and went through rough terrain in the middle of nowhere and saw nomads, camels, gorgeous geology (!), and listened to silence. Honestly, one of the most amazing things I’ve ever done! More later…with photos…

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Bonjour, Maroc!

01 Saturday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

bright colors, city, marrakech, Mokhtar Mitiko, Morocco

I’m back in Morocco! A quick trip it will be, but this time I’ve brought friends with me, Jack and Deb Walsingham. And we are in our glory! The weather is spectacular albeit hot. But it’s a dry heat, we remind ourselves.

We arrived in Casablanca. Casablanca. Sounds romantic, doesn’t it? It’s not. It’s a big city, about 3-5 million people I think, and it’s just that: a big city. But still, we were excited to be there and excited to see and hear the Arabic language written and spoken. First thing, at the airport, I swallowed a fly! I don’t know why I swallowed a fly… It was flying around me, I swatted it and the backdraft of the swap drew it right into my mouth and down it went. I had to keep swallowing because even though it went down I could still feel it. So that was my welcome to Morocco! Bleck.

Mokhtar met us and we were off to Marrakech! More later…

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27 Sunday May 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Elena was in Sahara just a few days from the time I was. Love this blog and want to share it with my readers!

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The recent past

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See Jane Travel

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Blogs worth reading

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  • Volubilis, Morocco: about it

My traveling past in Flickr photos

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