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Tag Archives: Morocco

When in Volubilis

27 Monday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

1st century, Morocco, nature, roman ruins, unesco, volubilis

Volubilis is the site of ancient Roman ruins from like the 1st century. Without going into all the details (those which I have not retained), I’ll list a few high points. To review more, check out my link on it on this blog.

From that link:
The ruins remained substantially intact until they were devastated by an earthquake in the mid-18th century and by Moroccan rulers subsequently looting the site for stone to reuse in building Meknes. It was not until the latter part of the 19th century that the site was definitively identified as that of the ancient city of Volubilis. During and after the period of French rule over Morocco, about half of the site was excavated, revealing many fine mosaics, and some of the more prominent public buildings and high-status houses were restored or reconstructed. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed for being “an exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire”.

So here’s my experience. Driving through verdant and green, olive tree-filled rolling hills with grazing cows, sheep, and donkeys, you see a small sign pointing in the direction of Volubilis. But be careful or you’ll miss it (my experience) and will have to turn around and hunt for it again. And suddenly, you see it in the distance. And it takes your breath away. Because here in the middle of literally nowhere is an ancient Roman ruin from the first century! Are you even kidding me right now? And no one was practically even around! Spending an entire day here would not be out of the question if you were really into this kind of thing. Even for me I think I left too soon. But I was so taken by the wildflowers it was hard to decide what to focus on: ancient Roman ruins or these beautiful purple and pink flowers growing up through the ancient columns! Amazing all the way around.

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Fez and Dar Jnane

26 Sunday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Dar Jnane, fez, gorgeous interior, guesthouse, medina, Morocco

There’s a guesthouse here in Fez that is spectacular. It’s called Dar Jnane. I think it’s cool that it’s sort of got my name. It’s in a quiet part of the medina so it is relatively peaceful. Aside from the gorgeous interior that has been restored to mostly (or a lot of) the 1700’s original, the terrace is beyond amazing! It’s large and tiled and has a main floor, stairs leading up to a mid-level that’s quite large, and a small third level big enough for a small table and a couple of chairs. And the view is beautiful.

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The road to Fez

26 Sunday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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cloudy day, fez, moroccan countryside, Morocco, nature, travelling, weather

It was a cloudy and damp day. Unlike the Morocco I’ve known in the past. In fact, my hair gets curlier as the days go on. So un-Morocco. But photography is better without the sun. The sun becomes another character in the image to futz with so it’s almost easier without it.

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Couscous Friday

25 Saturday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

call to prayer, casablanca, city sounds, coucous, food, hot peppers, moroccan city, Morocco, travel

Fridays are for couscous. And it seems every Moroccan follows this tradition. Mokhtar’s sister and her family were kind enough to invite me over to enjoy it with them! It was the best couscous I’ve ever had. Amazing! It had kind of a spice to it and she served fresh hot peppers with it besides. She will give me the recipe and allow me to make it with her next week when I return to their home.Image

It was great spending time with these family members! Four children aged 16, 12, 7, and 2. Lots of energy and joy in that home! And such love. It was really a great time. The home is beautiful, which is always fun to see, but it was comfortable and they are wonderful hosts.

I slept on the Moroccan sofas in the living room with the 12 year old daughter and it was an excellent nights’ sleep with donkey hooves sounding down the street in the night, cats fighting, birds singing, and all kinds of other Moroccan city sounds! And then the call to prayer which always first wakes me, then lulls me back to a deep sleep. Ah, Morocco!

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En route

23 Thursday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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casablanca, eyeglasses, fes, logan airport, luggage, Morocco, packing

I’m waiting for the flight to Paris and then Casablanca in the lounge at Logan Airport in Boston. Ready for my third trip to Morocco in 13 months. Morocco 3.

Luggage is light this time yet I know I still brought more than is needed. 18 kg is the heaviest bag. 6 kg is the backpack. So I’m pretty proud of myself since a week of business travel just before this trip requires me to ship one bag home. Lots of packing and re-packing and organizing. Hoping I didn’t forget more than the eyeglasses I already realize were forgotten.

Everything seems situated enough on that end with plans for a brief stay in Casablanca overnight and then on to Fes sometime on Saturday.

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What I know for sure

06 Monday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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contentment, fear, happiness, joy, life, Morocco, outlook, peace, travel

People frequently talk about how bad the world is/or has gotten; how horrible human beings are. I don’t buy that. Not at all. Reading back through history it seems people always think the world is worse in their time than it was in a previous time. Or they think they don’t want to raise their kids in ‘these times’. Again, I beg to differ.

While I’m not naive to problems and issues in the world, I don’t think people are bad. Nor do I think the world is overall a scary place. If it was there’d be far more horrible things occurring to each of us every day. There’d be far more scary days than non-scary days. And there just aren’t, for most of us. Sometimes I think people are most comfortable operating from a place of fear or a place of can’t. I can’t travel because it’s scary. I can’t go there because I could get hurt. I can’t leave because something might happen. I’m not going to try X because I might not succeed. I think our minds limit or stop many of us from trying new or unfamiliar things. And that includes traveling.

I believe we are all similar around the world, trying to live our lives in a way consistent with what we believe, to live happily, to connect with others, and to love those closest to us. Everywhere in the world I have seen that. I think that’s one of the main reasons I travel. It’s important for me to see how we are all similar no matter where we reside or what we do everyday in life.

 

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Third time’s a charm

04 Saturday May 2013

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Morocco, northern cities, tagine, tranquil

I’m returning to Morocco in 20 days; this time to visit some of the northern cities. I’m saving some of those cities for a fourth trip back, hopefully with my friends Richard and Barbara.

During planning the guide asked me, “Will this be a vacation or a trip?” That’s always a big topic of conversation: trips vs vacations! This time it is most definitely a vacation. All I want to do is drink coffee, eat tagine, take walks through the souks and villages and countryside, and sleep! And of course, take photos. I’ve had a lot of ‘trips of a lifetime’ so this time I want to just relax. As my friend Mokhtar says, ‘Just tranquil.’ Only he pronounces it ‘trankeel.’ I love that word with that pronunciation.

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Lord of the flies

05 Wednesday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 1 Comment

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berber village, buzzing, crazy day, flies, Morocco, mosquito, mosquito net, swarms, travel, vacation, wearing a scarf

So on the first day I swallowed a fly. Today one flew into my eye. What’s next? My ears? I swear I’ve never seen so many flies around me. Ever. These flies are slow yet un-catchable or -killable. And they land and sit there on you taunting you to get them and then escape at the last minute. And the buzzing sound! Argh. It’s enough to seriously drive me crazy. Day and night they swarm and crawl and buzz and hover. I’ve taken to wearing a scarf over my head and upper body at night to act as a mosquito net of sorts. I don’t even care that I can’t fully breathe. Just so those things are away from me…

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Hello, kitty!

05 Wednesday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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berber village, cats, kittens, kitty, Morocco

Cats, cats, and more cats. They are everywhere! And just when you think you’re seeing a repeat cat, there’s some little marking on it that makes you realize it’s yet another one. We have seen the tiniest cats. Scroungy little mangy cats with huge eyes, old cats with some disability, cats with long tails, cats with short tails. They’re everywhere. Last night in the Berber village where we stayed there was a mother cat with huge ears who had a brood hidden under the thick rosemary bushes. Their mews gave them away and we were able to watch them closely without disturbing them.

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Morocco: Where do I begin?

05 Wednesday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

amazing things, berber villages, Morocco, mountains, obscure places, rough terrain

This trip to Morocco has impressed me as much as the first trip 5 months ago – – but in way different ways. The first time I had no idea what to expect. This time, I not only know what to expect (for the most part) but I recognize places I’ve been. Even the most obscure places. It’s surprising how much really stuck in my mind from the first time. The realization of how much I love it here and how at home I feel surprises me. I am comfortable stumbling through the language(s), both French and Arabic. I am comfortable with the food, with the flow of things, with the people.

This trip has been very similar to my first trip so far; at least as far as the places visited. Where it has been different has been with what Mokhtar has decided to do at each place. For example we drove quite a distance off the beaten path into tiny Berber villages and stayed with a family at their Riad in Boutahar. We played with the children, made couscous for dinner with them, and the sister’s friend applied henna to Debbie and I. We laughed around the dinner table, helped them clean up, took photos with the children, and watched TV. It was amazing. Next day we drove off, off, off road again and went through rough terrain in the middle of nowhere and saw nomads, camels, gorgeous geology (!), and listened to silence. Honestly, one of the most amazing things I’ve ever done! More later…with photos…

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Bonjour, Maroc!

01 Saturday Sep 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

bright colors, city, marrakech, Mokhtar Mitiko, Morocco

I’m back in Morocco! A quick trip it will be, but this time I’ve brought friends with me, Jack and Deb Walsingham. And we are in our glory! The weather is spectacular albeit hot. But it’s a dry heat, we remind ourselves.

We arrived in Casablanca. Casablanca. Sounds romantic, doesn’t it? It’s not. It’s a big city, about 3-5 million people I think, and it’s just that: a big city. But still, we were excited to be there and excited to see and hear the Arabic language written and spoken. First thing, at the airport, I swallowed a fly! I don’t know why I swallowed a fly… It was flying around me, I swatted it and the backdraft of the swap drew it right into my mouth and down it went. I had to keep swallowing because even though it went down I could still feel it. So that was my welcome to Morocco! Bleck.

Mokhtar met us and we were off to Marrakech! More later…

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If I had a nickel…

15 Tuesday May 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Ambassador Kaplan, Morocco, Rabat, US Ambassador, US Embassy, us embassy in morocco

…for everyone who has told me that I live near the US Ambassador to Morocco, Ambassador Kaplan, in the last few days, I’d be a very rich girl! Now you all tell me? You mean I could’ve been in contact with him well before this?! Still no word from the I’m assuming very-busy-Ambassador, but I’m not giving up hope. After all of the great things I’ve now heard about him from every tom, dick, and harry in NE Minneapolis, I can’t imagine not meeting him to at least say ‘hello.’ I just hope I don’t go crazy like a friend of mine did when she met Arnold Schwartzeneger and yelled out, “We looooooovvve you, Arnold!”

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Morocco is everywhere!

13 Sunday May 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

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Ambassador Kaplan, dirham, gang, hoodlum, Moroccan, Morocco, Muslim, neighborhood, US Ambassador, US Embassy, us embassy in morocco

You know how it is when you get something new and suddenly you see it everywhere? That’s how Morocco is for me. Everywhere I go I see or hear something about Morocco. From hair products to food to a movie set to music, it’s all related to Morocco. To top it off I found out that the US Ambassador to Morocco under President Obama is Samuel L. Kaplan, my neighbor! He lives about 1/2 mile from me and I’m on a hunt to find him. I am planning to go back to Morocco and wouldn’t it be cool to have made contact with the guy? It’s worth a try.

I can’t get Morocco out of my mind. I’m entirely focused on the place and the people I met. This place, above all others ever, has really affected me. It opened up my view on this culture and to this place I’ve never known that much about. I always thought Morocco was a dangerous place for some reason. I don’t know why. And based on the comments I received before my departure it seems I wasn’t alone. Nearly everyone who knew I was going (if they weren’t confusing it with ‘Monaco’), warned me about my visit there. I remember the morning I left I said good-bye to my friend Debbie and commented, “This is probably the most dangerous place I’ve visited.” She agreed. We hugged each other extra hard.

Why did I feel that way? In hindsight it’s probably because it’s a Muslim country. I can’t think of any other reason because I really knew very little about the place except that. So what else could it be? Whatever the reason, I was wrong. Not once did I feel afraid. And the fact that the place is Muslim had no bearing on anything for me. I was just surprised in general how friendly and kind everyone was, but not because it’s a Muslim country. I was surprised just because it was so notable.

I’m not naive enough to think there’s no bad that befalls tourists or others, but I just never felt anything unnerving. The closest I came perhaps is when I was walking on our street to the car with Mokhtar. He was carrying my luggage and a guy I had seen many times before approached him and started talking to him and grabbing for my luggage, ignoring me the whole time. I couldn’t understand what they were saying but could tell by body language that Mokhtar wasn’t keen on the guy. Finally, appearing to be under some pressure to do so, Mokhtar handed my bag to the guy and we walked to the car. There was a split second that I wondered what was going to happen and debated about what I should do. Then the guy started dusting off the car, helping me in, wiping off the windshield, all for money. Mokhtar gave him a few dirham and we took off. “Remember his face,” Mokhtar told me. Turns out the guy is the gang leader for that area and as Mokhtar said, it’s better to just go along with him so that in the future he will help you out vs fighting him. So while we most likely weren’t in any danger, I was right on my interpretation of the situation just by reading the body language and was on the lookout for him later.

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The recent past

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  • Volubilis, Morocco: about it

My traveling past in Flickr photos

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