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Category Archives: Observations

Music!

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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The music on this trip was remarkable! Thanks to Richard and his flute, Mokhtar and his drumming, and Achmed and his castanets as well as the musicians we met along the way. In the smallest of villages in Morocco we found musicians and heard the most beautiful music! The waiters in restaurants and hotels along the way double as musicians and in the little Berber village we stayed in, the silversmith by day was a lotar player by night! And the talent! Amazing. Whilst walking at night in the desert I heard bongo drumming floating through the air. Add that sound to the starry Moroccan sky and to the sound of my feet trudging through the sand and it was magical! In Essaouira, on the Atlantic Coast, I was introduced to Ari Farka Toure and Toumani Diabate playing on a CD in the souq. I fell in love with it instantly! Turns out, we were following Richard and Mokhtar to that very store to buy that very CD. “They were going in to buy that CD and you just happened to like it when it was playing over the loudspeaker,” Barbara informed me. I am crazy about this music and am almost haunted by the memories from that day whilst listening to it! I encourage everyone to listen to the album, “In the Heart of the Moon”, which won a Grammy in 2005. Amazing music by these Malian artists. It’s the music I listened to the last half of my trip to Morocco and it’s the CD Mokhtar gave me to remember Morocco by…

And of course, three other songs: Barbara singing the Chinese love song, Mokhtar singing an Arabic prayer, and Marianne and Susan singing a farewell song to our driver, Achmed, on his last day. The latter song made me burst out in tears because of its simplistic beauty. Had I not been so taken off guard, I would have videoed it with my iPhone, like I did inthe excerpts below…

So beautiful…

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My friends, Richard and Barbara Robinson

15 Sunday Apr 2012

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lonely planet guidebook

Richard Robinson is my travel agent’s husband. Barbara Ye Robinson (of Amcan Travel) and Richard Robinson are an enviable couple. They take care of one another, they are nurturing toward one another, and they occasionally bicker – – which is refreshing. Richard is the travel agent’s husband; the tour guide’s companion. He doesn’t get involved in the details of the trip and all the planning that goes along with that. He was as “in the loop” about the goings-on of the trip as I was. In other words, not at all. Wrongly on many occasions, I assumed he knew what we were doing next. He didn’t. He’s blindly along for the ride. And he’s the photographer and musician (plays the flute and drums and whatnot). Barbara is used to being in charge since she plans and organizes everything regarding the trip. She’s small in stature but not in personality. She’s assertive and talented and smart.

Richard looked hot in the shesh (turban) he wore everyday. He plays the flute beautifully and is passionate about music, about his experiences, and about Barbara. He adores Barbara and shows it by calling her terms of endearment and taking care of her constantly. When his camel came apart from the rest of the camel-line and just stood in place, unable to make a decision about what to do next, Richard calmly yet firmly tried to get the attention of the camel herder by saying, “Uh, I say!” It became one of the most repeated phrases of the trip and still makes me laugh! He was so British about it. Ha. Richard made me laugh a lot. And I know I made him laugh a lot. He’s easy to be around and is very entertaining. We had a lot of fun together.

Barbara loves to travel. She is very organized and follows the Lonely Planet guidebook religiously. She wants everyone on her tour to have a good time and to be OK with how things are going and she checks in frequently with people to see how they’re doing. I like that about her. I felt safe with her. When I decided to leave the group a few times and do my own thing she approached me with concern and made sure I was making the right decision. “As your younger sister, I know I’m not supposed to give you advice,” she’d say, checking in with me to make sure I had thought through what I was going to do. I appreciated it on the trip and will continue to appreciate that in her as we continue our friendship throughout the coming years! I like how Barbara is with Richard, too. She relies on him and she takes care of him always handing him antiseptic wipes, gently telling him what he needed to do, and allowing him to take care of her! Oh! And Barbara and I have seen each other naked, too, which I will cover in a separate blog post when I describe our experience together in the hammam, or public bath…

One day Barbara sat next to Richard after a morning spent in different rows on the van saying, “I miss Richard. He’s my fatal attraction.” And one night whilst Richard was playing the flute, Barbara told him how to play by basically shouting out orders to him, “Softer!” “Don’t play that one!” “Play that one song…” We laughed about it because she’s such a little thing with such a powerful way about her! And when she sang a Chinese love song, my heart melted! And with Richard accompanying her on the flute? Priceless.

Probably the funniest thing I remember is a story Richard told to Mokhtar and me about a “contract” they signed when they got married about how Barbara would have the say over the smaller details in life and they would confer on the larger things. All the while he described this she was rolling her eyes and doing the ‘blah, blah, blah’ sign with her fingers (fingers touching thumb over and over) and saying, “I’ve GOT to hear THIS!” The punch line from Richard: Nothing has happened in our lives yet that requires my input. It was funnier than I can explain here, but it’s something we’ve laughed at more than once together.

Barbara and Richard are two people with whom I can’t wait to spend more time!

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A shesh, or turban.

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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Richard and Mokhtar each wore the shesh, or Moroccan turban. We all loved how Richard took so naturally to his and wore it with pride each day! We loved it and commented on it constantly, making him realize how good he looked in the thing! And of course, Mokhtar looked great in his, tying it a bit differently every day, sometimes even draping it down over his body (presumably to keep sand from getting in his clothing?). From what little I know about a shesh, there are black ones that are worn in cooler weather and a white one worn in hotter weather. There are also blue ones and other colors. Mokhtar tied my pink one as seen in the second example on the video below; Richard’s was more like the first example.

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Camel toe?

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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So I have to go all the way to Morocco to learn a few things about camels. First, there are no wild camels. And second, the “camels” in Morocco are actually called dromedary. They aren’t even called camels.

Here’s what Wikipedia has to say: ‘A camel is an even-toed ungulate within the genus Camelus, bearing distinctive fatty deposits known as humps on its back. There are two species of camels: the dromedary or Arabian camel has a single hump, and the bactrian has two humps. Dromedaries are native to the dry desert areas of West Asia, and Bactrian camels are native to Central and East Asia. Both species are domesticated; they provide milk and meat, and are working animals.

The term camel is derived via Latin and Greek from Hebrew or Phoenician gāmāl, possibly from a verb root meaning ‘to bear/carry’ (related to Arabic jamala). Camel is also used more broadly to describe any of the six camel-like creatures in the family camelidae: the two true camels, and the four South American camelids: the llama, alpaca, guanaco, and vicuña. The average life expectancy of a camel is 40 to 50 years. A fully grown adult camel stands 1.85 m (6 ft 1 in) at the shoulder and 2.15 m (7 ft 1 in)[clarification needed] at the hump. The hump rises about 75 cm (30 in) out of its body. Camels can run at up to 65 km/h (40 mph) in short bursts and sustain speeds of up to 40 km/h (25 mph).

Fossil evidence indicates that the ancestors of modern camels evolved in North America during the Palaeogene period (see also Camelops), and later spread to most parts of Asia. The people of ancient Somalia first domesticated camels well before 2000 BC.’

So maybe we should really be referring to that certain female-tight-pants issue as ‘dromedary toe.’

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Tank tops and temples do not mix

05 Monday Mar 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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I’m not in Kansas anymore. In Morocco (and Turkey, for that matter – – or any Muslim country), one cannot show the knee, the cleavage, or the shoulder/arm. It’s not that you can’t but it would be disrespectful if you did. So I won’t. Or at least I’ll try really hard not to. Only “certain kind of women” wear clothing that show these body parts. I have a scarf along to use as a cover-up and will buy more along the way which should take care of the shoulder/arm. I’ll wear trousers and longish skirts, which should take care of the knee. As for the cleavage, I’m leaving my décolletage bearing dresses and shirts behind. I just hope feet aren’t a problem because I refuse to leave behind the flip-flop and sandal. Apparently I am a certain kind of woman.

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Memories

29 Sunday Jan 2012

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I often envision myself as an old woman. Not in a morbid or sad way but in a way that mostly helps me realize how important it is to live life to its fullest. I often think how when I am old it will be the trips I’ve taken that will be the topic of my conversations; the thoughts and memories of those trips that will bring a smile to my face. I know this because those thoughts and memories are things that make me smile now.

One of my travel role models and a role model in general for me is my grandmother, Eva Lof. My mom’s mom. She wasn’t officially educated (never went beyond 6th grade, if even). Born in Iowa, she ventured only as far as Minnesota to live. And she died within a 10-mile radius of where she birthed and reared her children and where she lived with her husband while he started a lumber business. Yet grandma lived her life to her fullest. She and grandpa traveled to Cuba back in the day, traveled to the hot spots in the American Southwest and Northwest and stayed at their place in Florida each winter. She logged each day in great detail in her journals from the price of coffee and gas to what each of them ate for lunch and dinner to when grandpa took his naps. Possibly mundane information to most, it’s information I find sweet and even intriguing. Grandma lived to be 103 and the whole while she was mostly with-it mentally. She remembered all sorts of things from her past and would share those things when I asked. It was fun to hear her stories and to realize that she, like me, had a vital life. My relationship with her gave me the perspective that we remain exactly who we are no matter how old we get. Our memories are the treasures we carry with us for as long as we live.

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Let the trip begin!

25 Wednesday Jan 2012

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spice markets

It’s not the first time I’ve realized this: the trip begins now, at home. There’s a moment at which I know it’s begun and that’s not necessarily just when it’s been decided that I’m really going. And making the airline reservations doesn’t officially signify the trip’s beginning. Nor do the moments when I download travel guides to my iPad or start the blog. The beginning of the trip for me is when I start the packing list and when I actually envision myself in the location. It happened today. I wrote down “flip-flops” on a blank sheet of “paper” (actually on the iPad using the app ‘Penultimate’) with the heading Packing List: Morocco and Turkey. And another clue: I found myself thinking of the trip all day long whilst driving across South Dakota, envisioning myself in the markets, on a camel, in the desert, at a Turkish bath, buying rugs, drinking strong coffee, etcetera. I imagined the smell of the spice markets, the sound of the traffic, the sting of sand on my face, the voices in the markets… Today it’s official: I’m taking a trip to Africa and the Middle East!

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Photos: Just plain beauty

06 Saturday Aug 2011

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations, Stuff worth knowing

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The beauty in Japan is astounding! It was surprising to me because I wasn’t expecting it! Knowing what I know of Asia, I expected it to look similar to other parts I have traveled to: large cities, modern conveniences, lots of people, smell of exhaust everywhere… It had all of that but also included the element of beauty I wasn’t prepared for. I knew Autumn was the best time to visit but didn’t realize the vibrancy of the variations of trees and plants as they changed color. Living out East and even in Minnesota I am accustomed to a vibrant (fairly) Autumn. But Japan reaches an entirely different level when it comes to beauty in general but especially fall colors. Here are some photos:

Small red leaves everywhere!

Vivid!

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Photos: Hearts

06 Saturday Aug 2011

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I started noticing themes in my photos, namely hearts. I saw a heart in a mushroom, on a deer’s behind, and on a tree stump. Here is my homage to the symbol of love:

A mushroom at dinner

A deer-like animal's behind

A tree stump with moss and freshly fallen leaves

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Bowing until the guest is out of sight

23 Tuesday Nov 2010

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This morning on a walk I saw three people dressed in traditional Japanese garb bidding ado to a guy in a taxi. They bowed, then bowed deeper, then more deeply as the guest pulled away from the curb. They continued bowing and looking after him as he drove away and was out of sight – – which allowed me enough time to get up to them, take a photo without them knowing it, and interrupt their bowing time since they were on the side of the road, right where I was to walk. Interesting behavior and I’d like to learn more. Also, would like to know more about why the Japanese traditionally sit at little tables either on the floor or on little chairs? So much to learn…

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More toilet stories

23 Tuesday Nov 2010

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I’m sorry to keep doing this to you but I have more toilet stories. Well, really just one. The ryokan we are staying in has the most ingenious toilet. Aside from the normal sprays and heated seat found on most toilets, this one has a sink on its tank with a little spicket. So when you flush (press forward for #1, backward for #2 to allow flushing capacity and water in the tank accordingly), the water comes out of the spicket on the top and flows down in to the tank! So you are able to wash your hands (no soap, cold water) in the water coming from the spicket whilst it fills your tank! A nice idea and touch, I think!

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The forest near Mt. Fuji and other stories

22 Monday Nov 2010

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We shared a variety of stories together, Amy and Colin, Susan and me.  It was fun to discuss stuff.  A few of the stories stand out in my mind.  One being the fact that there is a forest near Mt. Fuji (that’s all I know about the locale) where people go to take their own lives.  Hikers are known to frequently stumble upon these people in various forms of dead-ness.  !!  I can’t even imagine.  Apparently it was described on a documentary in the UK so I aim to find out more about that when I get home or have regular internet access.  That’s just crazy!

Another story that stands out is the one where Amy describes how in the mid-80’s people were hurling themselves into oncoming trains at too-regular intervals so Japan investigated what could be done about it and came up with the idea that soothing sounds could be used as a deterrent.  So now the sound of birds can be heard as well as soft tinkling music indicating the end of the escalator, the arrival of a train, and such.  The sounds apparently add to the overall well-being of people and hopefully stop them from thoughts of hurling themselves into trains.  Plus, they made a law that the families of the person that takes their life in that dramatic fashion be responsible for paying a debt to the city or country.  So the shame of that is to act as a deterrent as well.  We were surprised to see a JR employee at the edge of the track during rush hour yesterday holding a ladder or something.  We wondered if that was to reach down and help someone who happened to step over?  If so, then it would seem that this might be a rather frequent thing! Interesting.

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Lost in translation

22 Monday Nov 2010

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I bought a new backpack.  It is black, zipper-y, sturdy, and comfortable. I paid $85 for the thing – – a bargain after looking at other ones that were upwards of $400.  I noticed there was a little insignia on the thing but never took the time to read it until I returned home to the room.  Here’s what it says (spellings and words are not mine):

Dear Costmer, this bag you chose is the thing built with the industry based on the plan with famous careful SOGAWA Inc.

I laugh.

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A vending machine straight from heaven itself

21 Sunday Nov 2010

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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Vending machines here are amazing.  Lit up and beautiful, they beckon from afar and draw you to them with their colorful moving light displays: blue, red, then purple.  But best of all, they serve hot and cold beverages in bottles.  The Royal Milk Tea is hot and creamy and we ooh and aah every time we buy one for 130 yen (1.56US).  Move over Starbucks.

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I am a pretty savvy traveler, but…

21 Sunday Nov 2010

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

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…often am a bit embarrassed about my natural response and reactions to things.  For instance, the Japanese word for ‘yes’ is ‘hi.’  So when the guy at the train station waved me through the queue with an enthusiastic ‘hi’ (merely affirming that I was good to go) and I responded happily with an equally enthusiastic, ‘hi’ (meaning hello to you, too!) I was suddenly embarrassed.  He wasn’t saying hi to me at all…

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The recent past

  • Living above my means
  • The broken palm tree and a hug
  • The little old man of Bab Doukkala
  • The kindness of a stranger
  • Walk gently on this earth
  • Love everlasting
  • And suddenly it hits you…
  • It’s not what you’re given, it’s what you do with it

Stuff from my past

See Jane Travel

Tweets by seejanetravel

Blogs worth reading

  • Moroccan Sahara Tours on Facebook
  • My trips: Argentina, Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and Antarctica
  • My trips: Tibet, China and Vietnam
  • Nomadic Matt's Travel Site
  • Susan Atherton's blog
  • Travel Notes by Mr. and Mrs. Globetrot
  • Turkey Travel Guide

Food! Glorious food!

  • Street food in Marrakech

Stuff worth knowing

  • Barbara Robinson's Trip Report – Istanbul
  • Definition 'kasbah'
  • Definition 'riad'
  • Definition 'souq'
  • Morocco Travel Guide
  • Turkey Travel Guide
  • Volubilis, Morocco: about it

My traveling past in Flickr photos

Nature is Moving InOndas -Marcas das Ondas do oceano na areia - Praia das Dunas- Cabo Frio - RJ - BrasilLanzaroteAltaiOld Town KhivaNightwalkPassing Streetcar (Explored)A study in contentmentMugi Morning Light on the CoastCopper, Brass, & Iron.
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