• 2012 Morocco Itinerary
  • About me, Jane
  • Japan 2010 Itinerary
  • Morocco 2013 Itinerary

See Jane Travel

See Jane Travel

Author Archives: seejanesblog

A day on the Atlantic coast: Essaouira, Morocco

16 Monday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Some of us knew we wanted to go to Essaouira, a UNESCO World Heritage listed city, on the Atlantic coast. (It is pronounced: Eh-swear-uh.) We waited until Sunday to go, the very last minute, in hopes that Marianne and Susan could join us. But they had other tasks they needed to complete: they were searching for tiles for their bathroom at home and needed to select it, buy it and haul it – – and we only had a couple of days left, so they passed. On Sunday morning Barbara, Richard, Mokhtar and I headed west to the seaside village Essaouira. It was fun to be on the road again and to head out of Marrakech.

Soon out of Marrakech I started feeling relaxed again! Marrakech is a fine enough place but is not my favorite. I found things to enjoy about it quite easily and I always had fun whilst there but I was definitely happier in the rural parts of Morocco. Today was no exception! I was thrilled to be 1. on the road again, 2. going to the sea, which I love, and 3. spending time alone with just the four of us. All day.

We passed through small towns along the way all aflutter with Sunday markets, to which the men attend but not the women. It was a fun drive. For us passengers, at least. Mokhtar might have another opinion since we got stopped by police along the way. Twice. The first time I noticed a guy in a truck give a signal of some sort as we passed him. His signal seemed angry yet he didn’t appear to be, so I put two and two together and figured out we were going to get stopped and I knew it would probably be for speeding. Shortly after that I heard Mokhtar groan as he spotted the police up ahead. And sure enough, they waved us over. When Mokhtar came back to the car he said it would have dinged him 4 points on his driving record but he ended up paying the cop some amount of money to expunge the fine – – something that happens all the time in Morocco, I’ve heard. The money never goes to the government but rather right in to the pocket of the officer. We continued on, sailing through the other patrolled spots until on our way back when we were pulled over for the backseat passengers not being buckled in (Barbara and me). We had no idea. Ugh. Again, Mokhtar paid his way out of that. How much he paid I have no idea. But I’m sure it wasn’t inexpensive.

We continued driving through villages. I tried to not take pictures so that I could really just enjoy the ride; be in the moment. But soon we approached goats in trees and all of that went out the window. I screamed about the goats! I had heard about this and really shouldn’t have been so surprised about it. I mean, after all, goats climb things. Why would they not climb a tree with low-hanging branches? But still, I was excited to see it. Mokhtar was unimpressed and nonchalant. “There’ll be more up ahead,” he casually commented. How can he be so sure, I wondered? Here’s how. While goats really do climb argan trees, you’d have to drive around to find them so these particular goats in trees, close to the road, with men selling stuff or holding a baby goat as a photo op with big smiles on their faces and collecting money from passersby were placed in these trees for tourists. Argh. Must I always be reminded that I’m a tourist!?! But at that moment all I could think about was how my nieces had told me that goats climb trees in Morocco and I knew all that mattered was that I get a photo of the whole situation. As soon as I got out of the car a man brought a baby goat to me and offered it for me to hold. A baby goat! Oh my gosh, who can’t resist any baby thing especially a little tiny goat?! So me, always leery about what kind of money I’m going to have to fork over for this kind of photo-op, turned to Mokhtar and asked, “Am I going to have to pay money to hold this little goat?” To which he responded, firmly and kind of annoyed I might add, “Hold the goat.” And then he handed the guy 10 dirham or something for the opportunity. So I got to hold an adorable little snuggly goat that seemed totally at home in my arms. Richard took my iPhone and tried to take a photo but he pressed the wrong button and shut the thing off so the guy who handed me the goat showed him the right button to push and I had my photo. (I love how iPhones are universal! Clearly this guy owned one, as did so many people I met). After a time I gathered myself together and gave back the baby goat and promptly sent a text with the photos to my sister so she could show the girls when they got up that morning.

We continued on toward the coast, stopping at the women’s cooperative where they demonstrated all things argan and talked about the cosmetics it is used in as well as the consumable products it is made in to. It was interesting, but because I’ve already discussed it in an earlier post (See March 31: The Argan Tree and Its Bounty) I won’t go on about it now. I enjoyed the stop very much and Barbara and I had fun shopping for products, both cosmetic and edible! And we all got free soap out of the deal! Plus, they had some gorgeous rugs on the floor as well as beautiful flowers all around the building.

Continuing on toward the coast we could finally see the sea spanning the horizon in front of us! It was beautiful, albeit hazy. And the air started to change. There was a welcome cool-off and a different, fresher smell in the air! Ah, the sea! I love water. And I was excited to see this rocky coast as well as the medina that prohibits cars (although allows motorbikes).

We parked and walked along the sea wall where I was mesmerized by all of the boats, nets, freshly caught fish, fishermen, and beautiful architecture! I think I could have stayed there for hours on end and filled an entire 8 MB camera disk just there alone! I love Essaouira and am so glad we visited! Since the 16th century the city has also been known by its Portuguese name of Mogador. The Berber name means ‘the wall’ in reference to the fortress walls that originally enclosed the city. Archaeological research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since prehistoric times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered by the island of Mogador, making it a peaceful harbor protected against strong marine winds. Although we found it to be quite windy. Wikipedia says: ‘Around the end of the 1st century BCE or early 1st century CE, Juba II established a Tyrian purple factory, processing the murex and purpura shells found in the intertidal rocks at Essaouira and the Iles Purpuraires. This dye colored the purple stripe in Imperial Roman Senatorial togas.’ Interesting.

Wiki also says, ‘During the 16th century, various powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar, molasses and the anchoring of pirates.’ As for the foundation for the modern-day Essaouira, Wiki says, ‘The present city of Essaouira was only built during the 18th century. Mohammed III, wishing to reorient his kingdom towards the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, chose Mogador as his key location. One of his objectives was to establish a harbour at the closest possible point from Marrakesh. The other was to cut off trade from Agadir in the south, which had been favouring political rival of Mohammed III, and the inhabitants of Agadir were forced to relocate to Essaouira. For 12 years, Mohammed III directed a French engineer, Théodore Cornut, and several other European architects and technicians, to build the fortress and city along modern lines. Originally called “Souira”, “The small fortress”, the name then became “Es-Saouira”, “The beautifully designed”.’

And more from Wiki: ‘From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad III until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco’s principal port, offering the goods of the caravan trade to the world. The route brought goods from sub-Saharan Africa to Timbuktu, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains to Marrakech. The road from Marrakech to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the King’s choice of this port among the many that the Moroccan coast offers.’

So there’s some history of the place! But what I experienced was a city full of energy and beauty! The people were friendly, the souk and medina were easily navigated, even if a bit crowded, and it felt like a real working city where tourists visited but didn’t overtake the place. I saw a lot of locals out for the day and I like that. The less I feel like a tourist, the happier I am!

And we walked further to where they were selling the fresh catch! For some reason they didn’t allow me to photograph the fish, but I had already taken a few photos of them.

What beauty! And it didn’t hurt that it was only partially sunny, which allowed for some great lighting in general for photography. I will show a few more shots of the marina area and will end this blog post. I will continue with more verbiage and photos in another post. Fortunately or unfortunately, nearly every single shot I took of this place turned out beautifully! So I will attempt to not bore you with too many photos…if that’s even possible…

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Out and about in Marrakech

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 4 Comments

Today I toured with Mokhtar around Marrakech. After coffee (nus nus), an omelette cooked in a tajine (yum!), and WiFi,

we headed to the tannery to see how animal hides are processed and turned in to leather. It was interesting and definitely not as smelly as it could’ve been had the weather been hotter and sweatier. Still, we bought the bunch of mint available at the entrance to hold in front of the nose to ward off the smell, just in case. The tannery is full of concrete vats with stacks and stacks of pelts in various steps of processing. There’s lime to burn the fur off the skin, there’s a vat of chemical and water with cinnamon to tint the skin (soon to be leather) brown, a vat of chemical and water with “saffron” (or colorant) to make the skin turn orange/yellow, and various other colorants for other colors. There are men standing thigh deep or waist deep in these vats, often filled with chemicals. And there are men cutting skins with knives – – because it appears that they’ve been pulled right off the body so they needed to be cut so they are flat pieces of skin. I didn’t get the level of detail of information I would have liked due to not understanding my guide so I ended up just taking pictures. Here’s a link from Wikipedia about tanning, in case you’re interested: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanning. I very much enjoy stuff like this and would have liked more information, but I think this Wiki site tells a lot. At one point I asked the guide about these guys standing in chemical (not all of it is chemical but even the water can’t be hygienic!) and he looked at my puzzled. “Everyone needs to work,” he replied. So work is the most important thing, even over potential health issues. It was well worth the visit.

After the tannery I did the seemingly-mandatory perusal of the leather shop associated with the tannery. i didn’t want anything but looked to be fair to myself. The guy did his best to make me buy something and got a little annoyed when I asked Mokhtar to tell him I wasn’t interested (after I had asked a price of a particular silk piece I would have considered had his original price not been so high). Through Mokhtar I apologized to the guy for starting the conversation and told him I really wasn’t interested and didn’t want to offend him. We left unscathed after I extended my hand to him and he reluctantly shook it and we said goodbye. Clearly the goal is to sell me something.

It was hot out and we went right to the car to head to our next stop: Le Jardin de Marjorelle. What a beautiful place! Here’s what Wikipedia says: The Majorelle Garden (Arabic: حديقة ماجوريل‎) is a twelve-acre botanical garden and artist’s landscape garden in Marrakech, Morocco. It was designed by the expatriate French artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s, during the colonial period when Morocco was a protectorate of France. The garden has been open to the public since 1947. Since 1980 the garden has been owned by Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé. After Yves Saint Laurent died in 2008 his ashes were scattered in the Majorelle Garden.

I walked slowly through the gardens taking some gorgeous photos. It’s impossible not to take beautiful photos in this place!

From the garden Mokhtar dropped me at the palace with instructions that I was to meet him under the flag in the souk at the silversmith shop he recommends I use to buy some silver. I meandered through the grounds of the palace enjoying the sunshine, the flowering trees, and the smell of jasmine wafting everywhere! It was mesmerizing! Here are some photos, before I go on…

Continuing to walk into the courtyard of the palace, I saw Marianne, Susan, Richard and Barbara! I was genuinely so happy to see them because we had been separated by differing activities for far too long! It was so much fun to run in to them. We sat on the bench and talked for quite a long time and I hated for them to leave. Meantime, Mokhtar called and wondered where I was; he had been waiting for a long time for me and I’m sure was wondering what was going on. So therefore, I rushed through the palace rather quickly. But what a gorgeous place! I had enough time to take some great photos, but not to learn anything about the place, which I suppose is fine since I was all about taking pictures.

Marianne and Susan halfway intended to meet Mokhtar at the silver shop so I directed them to it and told them I’d be home within two hours so I could let them in since they didn’t have a key. I walked down the street admiring the beauty all around me and spotted them way down at the end of the street. They turned down a narrow street before I could get to them so we shopped without them, sadly. The silver shop was small but filled with great stuff! I bought a beautiful ring and a bracelet. They gave me a charm of the hand of Fatima as a gift. It was a fun stop and I’m happy with my purchases, even now that I’m home!

Since we decided we were going to make omelets for breakfast for everyone the next morning, Mokhtar went and ordered the seasoned meat we planned on using. It’s not an easy thing to find or buy so he had someone get it ready for him to pick up later. After shopping for silver we walked around in the souk a bit and then went back to the riad so that I could let Marianne and Susan in and so we could attend the second cooking class: chicken and vegetables with preserved lemons and Moroccan salad. I found the cooking classes frustrating because we didn’t get to do our own chopping, talking or cooking! Our “teacher” was a pregnant girl who didn’t feel well and had a bad attitude in general. She rushed through the whole process at lightening-speed and bolted out of there before we knew what hit us. Asking questions did no good because she didn’t speak English. The head of the cooking school told us that every family has their own way of doing things and that she did things differently. Well, I no more know how to make chicken and preserved lemon than I do a figgy pudding. It’s frustrating because I paid to learn these things and suffered through some really annoying hours to get to this point. But I digress. I don’t want to focus on the only negative part of the trip. So I’m done discussing the cooking “school” experience on this blog.

Here’s what. As a group, we always had fun together! We laughed a lot and generally enjoyed each other’s company. At least I speak for myself on this. I grew very fond of these people I traveled with during these two weeks and I loved being with them! But I also liked being on my own exploring Marrakech in the way that suited me.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Marrakech and the Ourika Valley

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 3 Comments

It was Friday, 23 March, 2012. My first full day in Marrakech and the surrounding area. Some of the other members of the group were walking around the medina and the souq; others were visiting museums and landmarks in the city. But first things first. Barbara and I had a hankering to do some computering and we needed WiFi fast! Richard and Mokhtar were visiting a hammam (a.k.a. bath at a bathhouse) in the morning so they dropped Barbara and I off at Grand Cafe de la Poste. What a great place! The music was amazing and the atmosphere comfortable, if not a bit hoity toity. Still, it was exactly what we craved and we were both able to blog, check Facebook and email, and drink fresh squeezed jus d’orange and mint tea! We actually probably talked more than we blogged or wrote, but we needed that, too! We were able to make a few plans for the coming days and share our thoughts about the trip thus far. It was really fun and a great bonding experience because it really was the first time we had to spend completely alone! Sooner than we expected, the guys showed up and Richard told us all about their hammam experience. It was funny to hear him describe it. “We stripped down to our underwear and carried our own water in buckets into a room with marble slabs. And suddenly they threw water on us and used something like, I don’t know, rusty nails or something to scour our bodies…” It was hilarious! Only when I had my hammam experience a couple of days later did I understand how true his story was!

We finished up and dropped Richard and Barbara off at the riad. We probably went in for a while but I don’t remember those details. What I do remember is that after a few minutes’ discussion, Mokhtar and I decided to get out of Marrakech and headed to the Ourika Valley. I had no idea what I was in for! It is beautiful! I loved it and ended up going back again on Monday with Marianne and Susan, and Richard and Barbara. There was so much to see and so much to photograph. Unfortunately the weather was rainy so I had to make the most of photography through raindrops. Still, I was able to get some good shots. We went back to the riad later and I picked up some fresh clothing and we went over to Mokhtar’s apartment to make tajine since everyone was out and about that night. I learned how to make tajine in a regular kettle, not in a tajine, and was a little disappointed that it was really good, even without the ubiquitous conical-shaped pottery slow cooker! I was given the responsibility of shelling fava beans and snap peas: two whole bags! I think more landed on the floor than in the pan! But after waiting the requisite 2 hours of cooking, the meal was delicious! A beautiful day and a great evening!

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Joie de vivre

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

The joy of living: joie de vivre. I have it; I know that. I feel it strongly often, but especially when I travel. In my life I often feel different from those around me. Not in a bad way. But I’m a democrat in a sea of republicans, single amongst doubles, no children around those with children, a traveler amongst non-travelers, etc. But when I travel I feel a part of everything and everyone. I feel like I blend in with those around me – – even though I probably really don’t! I always look different from those I’m traveling among and I’m carrying a camera, for goodness’ sake, so how can I really blend in? But the point is, I feel like I blend in to my surroundings when I travel. Traveling makes me more joyful!

My favorite day happened to be the last day we were all in the van together. It’s not like I didn’t enjoy other days prior. And I most certainly enjoyed the days after this day, but there was something about this place in the valley that I particularly found beautiful. I have already written a bit about it but now I write more – – and add pictures. The weather was beautiful. The sun was shining and the sky was blue. And I knew it was the last day in the country before going to Marrakech. This time with the group, as I knew it, would end.

We drove through such beautiful scenery and stopped for coffee in a beautiful setting. We also stopped again at what was my favorite place for tajine. Everyone else was tired of tajine so I joined Ahmed and Mokhtar for some and was able to eat up with all the rest of the men, including many guides that Mokhtar knew. “He’s from my village,” Mokhtar always told me. I know he’s from M’Hamid, a small village of about 3,000 people. We ran in to about 6 people from his village in Marrakech and the surrounding area, a pretty high ratio, I’d say.

Everything changed as we approached Marrakech. No more countryside and villages. Now lots of people, activity and commotion. We arrived at our riad and settled in. I stayed with Catharine in a twin room. All of us were on the second floor except Carolyn who stayed down near the kitchen on the first floor. I spent the first evening with Mokhtar at his apartment where he made spaghetti for dinner and we used his WiFi to catch up on computer stuff. It was fun to see a different part of Marrakech and to experience a bit of normal life. I slept like a baby in our riad that night and was happy to be settled in to one place for the next many days for the first time on the trip!

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

The little Berber village – – and the music!

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

The music in a particular Berber village we visited was phenomenal. One of the guys who entertained us one evening at the auberge we stayed at (where the guy from the UK ended up dying…) plays the lotar. He is a silversmith by day and a lotar player by night! A lotar, is a Moroccan guitar, made of a “leg of a bed” or any turned wood, a bowl covered with henna-painted goat skin for the body and 4-6 strings; it is approximately 36″x 10.5″x 8″ and there are generally colorful paintings all over it. And it sounds so great in the right hands.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Music!

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

≈ Leave a comment

The music on this trip was remarkable! Thanks to Richard and his flute, Mokhtar and his drumming, and Achmed and his castanets as well as the musicians we met along the way. In the smallest of villages in Morocco we found musicians and heard the most beautiful music! The waiters in restaurants and hotels along the way double as musicians and in the little Berber village we stayed in, the silversmith by day was a lotar player by night! And the talent! Amazing. Whilst walking at night in the desert I heard bongo drumming floating through the air. Add that sound to the starry Moroccan sky and to the sound of my feet trudging through the sand and it was magical! In Essaouira, on the Atlantic Coast, I was introduced to Ari Farka Toure and Toumani Diabate playing on a CD in the souq. I fell in love with it instantly! Turns out, we were following Richard and Mokhtar to that very store to buy that very CD. “They were going in to buy that CD and you just happened to like it when it was playing over the loudspeaker,” Barbara informed me. I am crazy about this music and am almost haunted by the memories from that day whilst listening to it! I encourage everyone to listen to the album, “In the Heart of the Moon”, which won a Grammy in 2005. Amazing music by these Malian artists. It’s the music I listened to the last half of my trip to Morocco and it’s the CD Mokhtar gave me to remember Morocco by…

And of course, three other songs: Barbara singing the Chinese love song, Mokhtar singing an Arabic prayer, and Marianne and Susan singing a farewell song to our driver, Achmed, on his last day. The latter song made me burst out in tears because of its simplistic beauty. Had I not been so taken off guard, I would have videoed it with my iPhone, like I did inthe excerpts below…

So beautiful…

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

My friends, Richard and Barbara Robinson

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

lonely planet guidebook

Richard Robinson is my travel agent’s husband. Barbara Ye Robinson (of Amcan Travel) and Richard Robinson are an enviable couple. They take care of one another, they are nurturing toward one another, and they occasionally bicker – – which is refreshing. Richard is the travel agent’s husband; the tour guide’s companion. He doesn’t get involved in the details of the trip and all the planning that goes along with that. He was as “in the loop” about the goings-on of the trip as I was. In other words, not at all. Wrongly on many occasions, I assumed he knew what we were doing next. He didn’t. He’s blindly along for the ride. And he’s the photographer and musician (plays the flute and drums and whatnot). Barbara is used to being in charge since she plans and organizes everything regarding the trip. She’s small in stature but not in personality. She’s assertive and talented and smart.

Richard looked hot in the shesh (turban) he wore everyday. He plays the flute beautifully and is passionate about music, about his experiences, and about Barbara. He adores Barbara and shows it by calling her terms of endearment and taking care of her constantly. When his camel came apart from the rest of the camel-line and just stood in place, unable to make a decision about what to do next, Richard calmly yet firmly tried to get the attention of the camel herder by saying, “Uh, I say!” It became one of the most repeated phrases of the trip and still makes me laugh! He was so British about it. Ha. Richard made me laugh a lot. And I know I made him laugh a lot. He’s easy to be around and is very entertaining. We had a lot of fun together.

Barbara loves to travel. She is very organized and follows the Lonely Planet guidebook religiously. She wants everyone on her tour to have a good time and to be OK with how things are going and she checks in frequently with people to see how they’re doing. I like that about her. I felt safe with her. When I decided to leave the group a few times and do my own thing she approached me with concern and made sure I was making the right decision. “As your younger sister, I know I’m not supposed to give you advice,” she’d say, checking in with me to make sure I had thought through what I was going to do. I appreciated it on the trip and will continue to appreciate that in her as we continue our friendship throughout the coming years! I like how Barbara is with Richard, too. She relies on him and she takes care of him always handing him antiseptic wipes, gently telling him what he needed to do, and allowing him to take care of her! Oh! And Barbara and I have seen each other naked, too, which I will cover in a separate blog post when I describe our experience together in the hammam, or public bath…

One day Barbara sat next to Richard after a morning spent in different rows on the van saying, “I miss Richard. He’s my fatal attraction.” And one night whilst Richard was playing the flute, Barbara told him how to play by basically shouting out orders to him, “Softer!” “Don’t play that one!” “Play that one song…” We laughed about it because she’s such a little thing with such a powerful way about her! And when she sang a Chinese love song, my heart melted! And with Richard accompanying her on the flute? Priceless.

Probably the funniest thing I remember is a story Richard told to Mokhtar and me about a “contract” they signed when they got married about how Barbara would have the say over the smaller details in life and they would confer on the larger things. All the while he described this she was rolling her eyes and doing the ‘blah, blah, blah’ sign with her fingers (fingers touching thumb over and over) and saying, “I’ve GOT to hear THIS!” The punch line from Richard: Nothing has happened in our lives yet that requires my input. It was funnier than I can explain here, but it’s something we’ve laughed at more than once together.

Barbara and Richard are two people with whom I can’t wait to spend more time!

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

A shesh, or turban.

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

≈ Leave a comment

Richard and Mokhtar each wore the shesh, or Moroccan turban. We all loved how Richard took so naturally to his and wore it with pride each day! We loved it and commented on it constantly, making him realize how good he looked in the thing! And of course, Mokhtar looked great in his, tying it a bit differently every day, sometimes even draping it down over his body (presumably to keep sand from getting in his clothing?). From what little I know about a shesh, there are black ones that are worn in cooler weather and a white one worn in hotter weather. There are also blue ones and other colors. Mokhtar tied my pink one as seen in the second example on the video below; Richard’s was more like the first example.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Camel toe?

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Observations

≈ 1 Comment

So I have to go all the way to Morocco to learn a few things about camels. First, there are no wild camels. And second, the “camels” in Morocco are actually called dromedary. They aren’t even called camels.

Here’s what Wikipedia has to say: ‘A camel is an even-toed ungulate within the genus Camelus, bearing distinctive fatty deposits known as humps on its back. There are two species of camels: the dromedary or Arabian camel has a single hump, and the bactrian has two humps. Dromedaries are native to the dry desert areas of West Asia, and Bactrian camels are native to Central and East Asia. Both species are domesticated; they provide milk and meat, and are working animals.

The term camel is derived via Latin and Greek from Hebrew or Phoenician gāmāl, possibly from a verb root meaning ‘to bear/carry’ (related to Arabic jamala). Camel is also used more broadly to describe any of the six camel-like creatures in the family camelidae: the two true camels, and the four South American camelids: the llama, alpaca, guanaco, and vicuña. The average life expectancy of a camel is 40 to 50 years. A fully grown adult camel stands 1.85 m (6 ft 1 in) at the shoulder and 2.15 m (7 ft 1 in)[clarification needed] at the hump. The hump rises about 75 cm (30 in) out of its body. Camels can run at up to 65 km/h (40 mph) in short bursts and sustain speeds of up to 40 km/h (25 mph).

Fossil evidence indicates that the ancestors of modern camels evolved in North America during the Palaeogene period (see also Camelops), and later spread to most parts of Asia. The people of ancient Somalia first domesticated camels well before 2000 BC.’

So maybe we should really be referring to that certain female-tight-pants issue as ‘dromedary toe.’

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

I’ve got a peaceful, easy feeling

15 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

The Eagles sang about a peaceful, easy feeling and referred to a desert. I keep singing that song over and over. Here are a few more memories of the Sahara…the place I can’t get out of my mind…

The sand can be as cold as snow in the evening or the morning. The sky is a deep, dark blue with a million stars all around. Seeing the Milky Way in such intensity was a first for me. I have never seen so many stars nor have I ever been so impacted by a sky as the Moroccan sky. Truly amazing and something to behold! The sky in Tibet was amazing: a bluer blue than I’ve ever seen. But this was different. Maybe it’s just knowing that I was out in truly the middle of nowhere that caused me to be so impacted by it; maybe it was the state of mind I was in or the happiness I was experiencing. It doesn’t matter. It was absolutely amazing to experience the desert and the sky.

Its vastness is amazing! The word ‘Sahara’ means desert in Arabic. So its name is a literal translation. Twenty years ago, researchers using radar technology discovered in the depths of the rocks of the wide valleys, a web of “channels”, some small, others wider, as broad as the Nile, which represent the dry riverbeds of the rivers that crossed Sahara thousands of years ago. Niger River once originated in Sahara.

The desert of Sahara is supposed to be at least 2.5 million years old. Studies made on the fluctuations of humidity in Sahara during the last 40,000 years revealed that the borders of the desert moved sometimes southward and other times northward and in particular periods, the desert disappeared completely, the sand dunes being replaced by wooded savannas, like those found today in eastern Africa. 18,000 years ago, the last Ice Age had reached its peak and Sahara had moved 400 km (250 mi) south from its current location. But the ice covering Europe, northern Asia and North America melted between 13,000 to 8,000 years ago.

The geological history of Sahara showed glacier vestiges in a 450 million old Sahara, during the Ordovician, at the beginning of the life explosion on Earth.

At different geological depths were found fossil algae that confirm that 150-200 million ago, during the Jurassic (the middle dinosaur era), Sahara was covered by an ancient sea, which was in some places 5,000 m (15,000 feet) deep. By 135 millions years ago, dinosaurs roamed Sahara, like the 9 m (30 ft) long carnivorous Afrovenator or the 22 m (73 ft) long sauropod Jobaria.

From that sea, many fossils came, like ammonites (a type of shelled squids), one meter long fishes from extinct groups and ancient huge sea reptiles. Later, during the early Cretaceous (the last dinosaur era), the zone was roamed by different species of dinosaurs. Even today, in the underground of Sahara, at 800 m (2500 feet) depth, there is a subterranean sea of fossil freshwater, compassing 620,000 cubic kilometers (150,000 cubic miles) over a surface of 6.5 million square kilometers (2.3 million square miles).

The exploitation of this water allowed the flourishing the Garamante civilization in the middle of the desert, between 500 BC to 500 AD, till the desert weather worsened too much.

One detail: today the symbol of Sahara is the dromedary camel. This species entered Sahara around the times of Jesus Christ, brought from Arabia. Before that, people of the place used the donkey, originated from the African wild ass, a native of the area.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Never want this to end…

08 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

unesco world heritage site

After staying in the kasbah last night we awoke early to a delicious breakfast that the men cooked for us: omelets, juice, bread, fruit. Then we met Zara and her family on their side of the casbah for our bread-making course. I wrote about this on a previous post so won’t write about it again. After the bread-making lesson we were getting ready to go. Since I had not been able to take pictures the day before of a specific door I had seen in the village, Mokhtar arranged it for me and Achmed, our driver, to go back together and take photos. The others walked to the bridge where we would meet them which was actually only about 1/2 mile at most. With a few other people joining Achmed and I (I now assume they joined to keep me from taking pictures because I got yelled at AGAIN even though there were no people around at all!!!). We stopped and took pictures of the door that I had seen yesterday. It looked like it was encrusted with jewels yet was only painted. Amazing! The occupants of the home this door was on were intrigued that I was taking photos and stood and stared and giggled at the goings on. People on bikes stopped to watch. It was a spectacle!

We met up with everyone after our bumpy and beautiful ride to the main road. We drove for quite awhile until we reached the Ait Benhaddou. Aït Benhaddou (Berber: Ath Benhadu, Arabic: آيت بن حدّو‎) is a ‘fortified city’, or ksar, along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in present-day Morocco. It is situated in Souss-Massa-Draâ on a hill along the Ounila River and is known for its kasbahs, although they take damage with each rainstorm. Most of the town’s inhabitants now live in a more modern village at the other side of the river; however, ten families still live within the ksar.
Aït Benhaddou has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987[1] and several films have been shot there, including;
Lawrence of Arabia (1962), Sodom And Gomorrah (1963), The Man Who Would Be King (film) (1975), The Message (film) (1976), Jesus of Nazareth (1977), Time Bandits (1981), The Jewel of the Nile (1985), The Living Daylights (1987), The Last Temptation of Christ (1988), The Sheltering Sky (1990), Kundun (1997), The Mummy (1999), Gladiator (2000), Alexander (2004), Kingdom of Heaven (2005) and Prince of Persia (2010).

We walked across the river to this most beautiful place and climbed the stairs to the top – – although I only went halfway and stopped at a place for tea and respite while the others (except Carolyn, who stayed with me) went on ahead. It was sunny and relaxing and beautiful there! I enjoyed tea and a good chat with Carolyn that I was happy to have. We walked down again sort of shopping along the way. It looked like rain so we walked through the town fairly fast but I managed to take some beautiful pictures along the way. We made it to the van just before the sky opened up on us and poured. It was a nice rainstorm that didn’t last for long.

Obviously, we were heading back toward Marrakech and this part of the journey would be over soon. There was no denying it. So we stopped along the way at some scenic spots and took some photos of Achmed and Mokhtar together. Whilst at the top of one overlook spot a guy appeared selling trinkets. He had apparently climbed all the way up from the bottom to greet us so we chose to oblige and purchased a few little things and took pictures with him. We continued on until we came to a beautiful area with white almond blossoms and a white minaret in the city. Our home for the night! What a picturesque place! It was beautiful.

Although we thought we had the place to ourselves, a biking group from Poland showed up part-way through our dinner. It was fun to see them and all their gear. One of their group, a talkative fellow, joined us for stories and eventually took our tajine (at some of our team’s urging). Turns out they had ordered couscous from the hotel but when we gave them our tajine they cancelled their couscous order. The hotel was not happy with them for that (and I suppose not happy with us). I learned of this story through some translating from Mokhtar after some very animated conversation took place.

After dinner we spread out in the large dining room/living room area and ate almonds, drank wine, and played cards. Catharine and I learned Mokhtar’s version of Rummy, a very convoluted and confusing game for us to learn. But when in Morocco, as we say. Of course Mokhtar won and kept accusing Catharine and I of somehow cheating – – because apparently he wasn’t winning by the margin he expected and thought maybe we were messing with the cards when he stepped away. Ha! We didn’t know enough to do any funny business but we let him think we just might be doing something fishy. We laughed a lot and I feel like I really got to know Catharine better on this night. It was very fun. Everyone went to bed, as usual, and Mokhtar and I stayed up in the common room talking for quite some time. Those were fun times of the day, when everyone went to bed. It gave me a chance to learn more about Morocco, about Mokhtar, and about the environment I was in. Very fun.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

I’ve been through the desert on a camel with a name

08 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ 2 Comments

Seeing the Sahara Desert dunes for the first time was amazing! The sunlight on the dunes casts shadows that are beautiful. The dunes of Erg Cheggi are beautiful. Erg Cheggi is one of Morocco’s two Saharan ergs – large dunes formed by wind-blown sand. The other is Erg Chigaga near M’hamid. The dunes of Erg Chebbi reach a height of up to 150 meters and altogether spans an area of 22 kilometers from north to south and up to 5-10 kilometers from east to west.

We were in Merzouga at a hotel where we were able to log on to WiFi, drink some tea, and generally relax a little before heading out on the camels for our overnight camping excursion. This hotel also handles the accommodations in the desert, our tents and meals. It’s a beautiful little place and we had a great time relaxing there. Richard played his flute quietly while we lounged. The sun shone through the windows and cast such beautiful light on the various fabrics making the colors dance. It was beautiful and I was cognizant of my heightened senses, fully aware of all the beauty around me.

Suddenly and seemingly out of the blue the camels arrived and we were instructed quickly which one to get on and told to hang on. We were off! Since the camels are in sitting positions and since their legs are so long, they get up first in the front making the rider go way up in front, then the back making the rider go way up in back. It’s fun! But I can see that it is very important to hang on! I was in the front and felt really lucky about that because I had an unobstructed view of the desert before me. I also got some great shots of everyone behind me and of our shadows. My camel had a name but I really never knew it or understood what they were telling me it was so I never called it anything. I’d try to say things to it but realized we didn’t speak the same language so it would just look at me either blankly or like it was going to lunge its long camel neck and little head at me. We never really bonded, that camel and me. It seemed generally annoyed and didn’t have the excited approach to the whole thing that I had. We just never saw eye to eye. But he (they’re all male) served me well enough and I learned early on not to care if he liked me or not. At least he never spat at me, as I’ve heard they can do.

We plodded along between the town and the actual desert for awhile with two guys in djellaba leading us and Mokhtar in his white djellaba way ahead, basically flying over the dunes! It was beautiful. As we got to the dunes the boys took off their sandals and walked barefoot since it’s just easier to be barefoot there. I got some incredible photographs despite the irregular movement of the camel’s gait.

We rode for about 2 hours until the sun was soon to set. At a very high dune we dismounted the camels and were instructed to walk to ‘that peak’ where we would watch the sunset. That peak way up there? What!? So I started out with the rest of the group walking through the sand thinking about all the trudging I’ve done through snow in my life and how this was exactly the same and how much I did not like it. The sand isn’t the packed-down kind of sand on the trails rather it’s the wind-blown sand, that drifts, like snow. It’s because I’m heavier than the others that I had so much problem always sinking in. So I glanced at the sky and could see that there were clouds underneath the sun which meant the sunset would be ending sooner and that I didn’t need to go so high! I decided to stop right there in my tracks and not join the others at the peak. So while I wasn’t at the peak, rather about 50 yards from it, I was able to still see the beautiful sunset and to enjoy a few moments alone as well. And I got some great shots of the others. After the sunset we were instructed to walk down the hill toward our camels ‘way down there’. Going down is a blast. Mokhtar came to me and told me to sit down, which I did. He grabbed my feet and ran down the hill, me squealing in excitement the whole way down! Very fun! We walked to the camels and re-mounted them and rode a little way further to our camp: a tight square of Berber tents where we would eat and sleep for the night.

At one point during the ride in a 4-wheeler came noisily over the dunes, something we had discussed about the desert and how it concerned us that ATVs were allowed at all in this peaceful place. When this particular ATV showed up the group was livid and showed the driver as much by giving him the finger. After he was out of sight, Mokhtar laughed and told us that was the guy delivering our food and water for the night! Basically a ‘don’t-you-feel-stupid-now’ kind of a comment. Ha. We climbed one last dune just over the camp and sat for a few moments enjoying the vast sky and quiet. And we enjoyed a glass of mint tea. How beautiful! It might have been here that I made my infamous-with-Richard comment about how great it would be to enjoy the northern lights in a sky like this… Yes. I said that. Here I am in Morocco underneath the most beautiful sky known to man and I’m talking about seeing northern lights. In Morocco. It made for a lot of laughs at least!

We enjoyed tajine in the dining tent as well as cold beer and some wine. It was heaven on earth. A little cool, they put a heater on for us and it was perfect. Later, while on a “bathroom” break, we watched the stars. I was hoping to see my first shooting star in the desert. I have never seen a shooting star! Alas it was not to be. But I still enjoyed the most beautiful evening sky I have ever seen. There is no obstruction either visually or with sound – – unless you count the bongo drums from the next camp beating in the distance or the sounds of children playing from the nomad family living right over the next dune! This evening in the desert was one of the most special evenings of my life for a variety of reasons…

After a cold’ish night sleeping in the tent everyone got up to see the sunrise, except me and Mokhtar. Sunset-Schmunset, I thought. They say it was beautiful and I’m sure it was. I prefer sunsets. Unbeknownst to us, Marianne and Susan were celebrating their 27th anniversary that day so they were particularly excited to see the sunrise where they wrote in the sand and took photos. Very special. When they returned they shared how they met, a bit about their time together, and their lives in general. It was a nice morning mostly because of that time to share personal stories. We ate breakfast and were on our way out of the camp.

Hanging around our camp that morning were a little boy and girl, about 6 and 8, with backpacks. They ran around us but were a little shy. Turns out they were waiting for the mule to come and take them to school. They were basically waiting at the ‘bus’ stop for their ‘bus.’ They are the children of the nomadic family living nearby and were on their way to a nomadic school nearby. The teacher travels through the desert for a week or so at a time and that’s when the children attend school. They looked exactly like kids waiting at bus stops here in the states. No difference at all. Except these kids live in a desert and ride a mule to a school that is a tent. So cool to see.

We had a beautiful morning to ride out of the desert. The light was perfect for pictures, although today I mostly just enjoyed the scenery and contemplated my experiences so far. I had no problem getting back up on the camel this morning either physically or mentally – – I was excited about it. And I never had any pain at all in my muscles from riding the thing! I was very surprised because those can’t be muscle groups I use every day, that’s for sure.

At the edge of town we were met by Mokhtar, Achmed and the van, and the owner of the hotel who had brought us our supplies by ATV the night before. We dismounted and were heading in to the town of Merzouga where we would return to our hotel from yesterday to shower and ready ourselves for the day – – a perfect oasis! The owner of the hotel had a blue car. It was the car we followed to bring us in to the hotel; our lead car. He came up to me, put his arm on my back and said, “Please. Get in to my little car.” It still cracks me up for some reason. His English is amazing, but his accent whilst saying this just hit me funny. It is something I have repeated many times for various reasons and I’m sure it will now be one of my standard sayings in life. “Please. Get in to my little car.” Ha. I did and off we went to the hotel where I got a bit of a head start on clean-up and relaxation and internet. Nice treatment that I now know Mokhtar was responsible for due to some things the hotelier said on our drive. Sweet.

This hotel is one of my favorite memories on the whole trip. Very peaceful and beautiful!! And the shower, although not much more than a trickle due to all the people showering at the same time, was heavenly. And the clean clothes I put on! So nice.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

I say Suh-harra, you say Suh-haira

07 Saturday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ Leave a comment

We woke up refreshed after our stay in the little Berber village – – and our night of music last night. Happy and content. It was at this auberge/hotel (camping) where the guy called Richard had a heart attack so we tried to get an update about him to no avail. As you know from a previous post, the guy died of the heart attack; never regained consciousness. We said our good-byes to the group from the United Kingdom (a happy bunch of fun people) and headed toward the Sahara. One of the UK guys told us that his trip on a camel was miserable and that his legs were so sore from it. Turns out he was so miserable that he opted to get down off the camel and walk over one hour out of the desert instead of riding. And based on what I know now, the walking is way more difficult so that shows me how much pain he was actually in.

It was a beautiful sunny day, a notably beautiful morning for me. I was happy. Very. Each day my joy grew and grew. These travel experiences invigorate me and by now I was feeling very free from thoughts about work and was fully engaged emotionally into what was happening around me. I was aware of everything I did and fully knew that what I was experiencing was life-changing and big. Each moment was important to me and I savored every bite of it.

Outside the gates of the auberge/hotel were two adorable boys. But even adorable boys can be irritating what with their constant quest for bon-bon; candy in French. One track minds, those kids. All they want is candy and I refuse to comply. Sadly, many tourists give them candy which is why they continue to ask for it. I mean, geez, candy is bad for the teeth so right there I’m not going to oblige. And secondly it’s just annoying to instill that kind of thing in these young minds. But they continued to ask and then asked the other typical questions: Where are you from? Where are you going? So I answered, ‘Minnesota, United States.’ And usually they will offer some tidbit about your state, surprisingly (usually team sports-related). Then to the question ‘where are you going’ I answered, “To the Sahara (pronounced Sa-harra) Desert.” To which the other kid finally spoke up and corrected me loudly, “Sa-haira!” So I repeated it and he nodded in agreement that I had gotten it right and repeated it in the correct pronunciation. Funny and cute. When we parted he hollered again from across the road, “Sahara!” in the correct pronunciation. Cute.

We drove back through the gorge and were able to see all of the same beauty from yesterday, luckily! That’s the benefit to always being at the end of the road – – you can go back again!

After only a short time on the road we came upon a shepherd and his camels. Beautiful dark colored camels without all the accoutrements of riding-camels or tourist-camels. As I learned earlier on the trip from Mokhtar, there are no wild camels! That dashed my dream because I romanticized the camel and thought it to roam freely in the wild like a wild animal. But really it’s like a cow. There are no wild cows, either. Never thought about that before but it’s true. So now that I think of it that way, it makes sense. Anyway, we stopped so I could take a picture of these camels and then the herder came up and showed us his newly cut and bleeding finger he had somehow wounded. Well, you have a bunch of caregiving women on board and this poor guy was suddenly surrounded by all sorts of caregiving tactics: band-aids, gauze, iodine from Achmed (the only thing that actually probably did some good!) and whatnot. Susan and I were in a race to get our aid out of our gear first and I won with a choice between a Dora band-aid, a ‘Keep Calm and Carry On’ band-aid or a regular fabric heavy-duty band-aid. I opted for the later. So after the iodine was poured over his finger (with some mild pain by the sounds he made and the look on his face) and a quick covering with the band-aid, we were off! He hardly had time, I’m sure, to figure out what had just happened, it was all flurry. We laughed about down the road thinking about it from his perspective!

Driving down the road further we started reaching flatter, drier-looking land. The Sahara! We came upon a beautiful little spot with a sign. “Place of Relaxation.” Who doesn’t want to relax! So we stopped.

Across the street from the Berber tent of relaxation were these bamboo and plant structures that were placed there to keep the sand from blowing across the road. Wind and sand control. Here’s what they looked like.

The ‘Place of Relaxation’ is also a place where the aqueducts/water system are located. The small hills in the distance were actually the old water system from the year 1200 or so! It was very interesting. We were able to walk down in to the tunnel where water must have been decades ago – – clearly no water had been through there for years and years. Dry as a bone. Interesting to see the tunnel and to imagine it rushing with water to keep families with fresh water in this remote desert area. But the best part for me was the Berber tent and the two men who entertained us there. One played a stringed instrument made from a Mobil Oil can! And the other charmed us with his smile and conversation. Turns out he was featured in 2010 in the Delta Sky Magazine on a feature about Morocco. He proudly showed us the article in a plastic sleeve; I took a photo of him with it. Quite cute!

Refreshed and relaxed, we headed down the road with our final destination: the desert! But first we stopped at the market for a little shopping. It was, for me, the best place for photography. I found more subject matter at this market than practically any other place, for some reason! Maybe it was just because of the lighting or because of my mood or something but I found so much and felt the time was too short there. Plus, the batteries in both of my cameras went dead so for a certain portion of the time I had no options except Richard’s camera. “Take it from here,” I told him. “Try shooting it from this angle,” I directed. Finally he just handed me his camera and I took my shots. But it’s not easy to use a camera I’m not familiar with so I have no idea how those shots turned out.

We stopped in a town to get money and for Mokhtar to shop for lunch. I loved this part of our days. Shopping each day for our lunch in the market and then finding a place to enjoy it was pure pleasure for me and something I looked forward to.

Catharine, Marianne, and Susan prepare their picnic lunches

After eating lunch we gave our extra bread and food to a man and woman working in the field nearby. It felt good. And in the Islamic religion it is very important to do good unto others at least once a day. As I understand it, giving bread/food is among the best things a follower can do.

Next stop: the desert. But that merits its own post!

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

To market, to market, and so on

01 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ Leave a comment

After our time with Mohammad walking through the Berber village, having tea at his home, and walking to our hotel in peaceful silence, after hanging in the bar whilst the guys jammed on their instruments, the next morning we had breakfast and then took a drive in to the gorges. What a beautiful place! Peaceful and majestic. We drove to the end of the road. There are a lot of ‘end of the roads’ in Morocco but I have a feeling that these will not be end-of-roads for long. I presume there is going to be more and more tourism to Morocco and that these roads will wind further and further into the country.

Since the road ended we meandered back the same we came, which was a treat for us because we enjoyed the view! We even discovered a few little treasures like the Berber nomad’s home dug in to caves on the side of a hill. On one side they keep their sheep and on the other they sleep themselves. We spotted a small door into a hillside apparently belonging to the nomads probably to keep food or fuel or something for the sheep. I’ve posted pictures; you’ll see the perspective shot, then the zoomed-in versions. The door is difficult to spot on the perspective shot. It’s right in the middle of the shot and it is blue. I joked that Bin Laden lived there until I was reminded he’s dead.

20120401-222745.jpg

20120401-222828.jpg

20120401-222846.jpg

20120401-222912.jpg

20120401-223109.jpg

20120401-223137.jpg

20120401-223209.jpg

20120401-223240.jpg

20120401-223307.jpg

20120401-223328.jpg

We went in to town and stopped at the market, seeing our friend Mohammad from the restaurant riding his bike along the way. Once in the market we walked around and Mokhtar purchased stuff for us for a picnic we would be having later. The funny thing about the place is that we were running in to people we know right and left! “Hi, how are you!” they’d say. And as we were ready to leave, Mohammad came with his bike for a repair. Had we known that’s where he was headed we would’ve most definitely given him a ride but instead he must’ve limped his bike all that way (3-5 miles?) to find some parts at the market. He was wearing the traditional yellow pointy-toed leather slipper shoes. Fun to see! And fun to see Mohammad because he is a delightful person with a happy face, beautiful smile, and excellent personality.

20120401-221414.jpg

20120401-221316.jpg

20120401-221241.jpg

20120401-221159.jpg

20120401-224051.jpg

There was a beautiful village in an oasis, pronounced oh-ah-sees, so we stopped and had a picnic. Palm trees everywhere and lush green farm fields. Mokhtar led us through the village, down the stairs to the farmed land where we walked on narrow partitions between plots of land and irrigation drains. Whilst walking I thought, 'Don't forget this! This is amazing and something tourists don't get a chance to do! You are so fortunate to know these people and be able to do this!' There were many moments like that on this trip; moments where I consciously made note how lucky I am, how small the world is, and how special these experiences are. We found a spot on a dry, cracked-mud surface near where some guys were digging earth away in order for the water to fill the area for irrigating. Interesting. Mokhtar had bought bread, Laughing Cow cheese, olives (lots!), tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onion, olive oil, hard boiled eggs, oranges, bananas – – and probably more that I can't remember, and we created the most delicious lunch! This was the first of three or four picnics we were to have. Again, this is something I will never forget and was something I'd look forward to each day.

Today was the day we saw our first camels. Granted they were on the side of the road at a picturesque spot ready for tourists to take photos, but it was still really fun and colorful. There was a guy there who seemed to be in charge. He was enigmatic and had apparently been there for some time since Carolyn, my co-traveler, had seen him before and had her picture taken with him. At one point he commented how much he loves his job, how lucky he is to have it, and how much he looks forward to it each day! It was really a fun conversation and gave me a personal perspective on his life. Very cool. There was another guy there trying to get me to buy a necklace and I kept waving him away until he straightforwardly said, “I’m just trying to show them to you. You’re under no obligation to buy one.” Well said! I loved it and at least stopped to look at them and comment on their beauty. A total sales tactic to make a tourist feel calm and relaxed, I’m sure, but it was genius! I picked up a lot of sales information along the way – – and I’ll probably do a post specifically about it.

20120401-225438.jpg

20120401-225511.jpg

We drove through another gorge, this one more touristy and since it was a weekend, it was packed with locals, mostly young people. It was beautiful but drove me crazy what with all the tourists. Who do these tourists think they are, anyway!? I fancy myself a local everywhere I go; total denial, I know. But I'm the girl who, whilst dining in a Vietnamese restaurant frequented only by caucasians, said to my Vietnamese companion, "I don't like this place. We're the only two Vietnamese in here!" To which she said, "Yeah, and you're not even Vietnamese!" At that moment I had no idea I wasn't! Total denial. I'm not a tourist. Ha.

We drove on to a little Berber village where we stayed at a great place! The town seemed so desolate and empty and baron but it was actually really a great little place if explored further. And I never even made it in to the actual town proper, rather I stayed on the outskirts and walked in the countryside. It was peaceful, that's for sure. The weather was a bit rainy and cold so that put a damper on the experience just a little but it was still a nice little place. I'd like to go back there again, in fact. We were going to have dinner in a Berber tent, which means outside under a low roof on cushions around tables, but it was too cold.

Prior to dinner a few of us were having a beer outside and all of a sudden I saw Marianne run by, looking urgent. Turns out a guy from the British group that was there camping in RVs had a heart attack. Marianne was running to get her partner, Susan, who is a nurse, to help. Susan told the story later how she brought him to life. At the moment that he came to he looked up at Susan and his wife (who was also there) and said, "Oh f***." An ambulance came (20 minutes or longer later) and took him away with some reluctance. Apparently they were nervous about payment or maybe they thought he was going to die, or something, but they were reluctant. Anyway, we were all wondering about this guy, Richard's well being and later heard from some guy in their tour that he woke up and was swearing and trying to pull the tubes out. But the sad thing is, we ran into those British travelers later in Marrakech and they told us he never made it through the night, so that guy was lying. And then we realized that since he never regained consciousness, his last words were, 'Oh f***'.

We dined in the common room, with the hot fireplace. We sat on cushions or low stools or pillows on the floor and ate soup, bread, and tajine. The night ended with a local Berber guy playing the lotar and other local guys jamming along with him on drums. And Richard played the flute. What a room full of talent that night! This night was of a different caliber because the drummer from the hotel/restaurant kicked ass, the lotar player was out of this world and Richard was melding with the two like they were a traveling show and had been together for years! If a talent agent had been there I'm sure some agreement would've been signed to take that show on the road! And there I sat, a witness to it all, thinking how lucky I am to experience these kinds of things. I mean, local music in a small Berber village in the middle of freaking nowhere!? How much better could it possibly get?

20120401-232441.jpg

20120401-232543.jpg

20120401-232623.jpg

0.000000 0.000000

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...

Obama!

01 Sunday Apr 2012

Posted by seejanesblog in Morocco

≈ Leave a comment

In most of the villages we visited comments were made about Obama once they found out we were from the States. “Obama!” They’d shout! “He looks like me!” It was a lot of fun to hear. Always when I travel the goings on of the US President are discussed. Before Clinton was elected a second time, Vietnamese people were commenting how they wanted him to win. When the whole ‘hanging chad’ issue was going on, I was traveling somewhere, maybe Vietnam again, and everyone was discussing that situation. Again when there was another close-call situation, there was conversation about that and now with Obama. I have no idea what’s going on in many parts of the world yet everyone knows what’s happening here. Makes me want to seek news sources that will provide more of a world view, if one even exists in the States. It’s not easy finding information that’s not America-centric, I think.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Print (Opens in new window) Print
Like Loading...
← Older posts
Newer posts →

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 683 other subscribers

The Calendar

January 2026
S M T W T F S
 123
45678910
11121314151617
18192021222324
25262728293031
« Apr    

The recent past

  • Living above my means
  • The broken palm tree and a hug
  • The little old man of Bab Doukkala
  • The kindness of a stranger
  • Walk gently on this earth
  • Love everlasting
  • And suddenly it hits you…
  • It’s not what you’re given, it’s what you do with it

Stuff from my past

See Jane Travel

Tweets by seejanetravel

Blogs worth reading

  • Moroccan Sahara Tours on Facebook
  • My trips: Argentina, Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and Antarctica
  • My trips: Tibet, China and Vietnam
  • Nomadic Matt's Travel Site
  • Susan Atherton's blog
  • Travel Notes by Mr. and Mrs. Globetrot
  • Turkey Travel Guide

Food! Glorious food!

  • Street food in Marrakech

Stuff worth knowing

  • Barbara Robinson's Trip Report – Istanbul
  • Definition 'kasbah'
  • Definition 'riad'
  • Definition 'souq'
  • Morocco Travel Guide
  • Turkey Travel Guide
  • Volubilis, Morocco: about it

My traveling past in Flickr photos

Winter Sun with a SidekickBPPlatzAnother day ends at the bridgeSwedish Church CottagesBurnished sunriseDRAKE WOOD DUCK-1667-5344-2 copyThe Sunrise GenieGood Morning Vietnam !GoldcrestA New Day's Awakening
More Photos
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar
  • Unknown's avatar

Meta

  • Create account
  • Log in
  • Entries feed
  • Comments feed
  • WordPress.com

Blog at WordPress.com.

  • Subscribe Subscribed
    • See Jane Travel
    • Join 97 other subscribers
    • Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
    • See Jane Travel
    • Subscribe Subscribed
    • Sign up
    • Log in
    • Report this content
    • View site in Reader
    • Manage subscriptions
    • Collapse this bar
%d